I was given a Marine Starting battery. I keep killing it. I then learn that is because it is not a deep cell battery. At least I now know.

Deep cycle, not deep cell ;) ... and very few batteries really are truly deep cycle. It you'd paid for this battery and actually use it for dry camping then there may be reason for concern but since it was given to you you're ahead of the curve no matter how you look at it. :D If you normally camp on electric sites then this marine battery will work just fine for the purpose as long as you properly maintain it, it's only when you actually intend to rely on battery reserve to get you through a few days of dry camping that the type & number of batteries becomes an issue. Decide first what your need is then match the number and type of battery to this need ... in my case I've only had one, in fact on our first couple of popups I had none. ;)

A marine Trolling battery will work well, I've used those in the past.

True DEEP CYCLE batteries like the GC-2 (six volt) or GC-12 (12 volt) The GC means Golf Car.. are designed to be run down as low as 50 percent (And quickly re-charbed I do not mean fast charge I mean don't let 'em sit discharged for long) over and over and over and over again.MARINE/deep cycle are basically starting batteries. Like to be above 75-80% state of charge and INSTANTLY recharged when run down.. Not really the best choice for RV use.Now I've had some folks say "Exact same chemistry so why is that" the answer is they are NOT exactly the same either chemically or physically.. BOth the physical construction and the chemistry are a bit different. A few years ago there was a hugh discussion thread on the chemical differences. and there have been several about the physical differences.. The plates are not pure lead they are an alloy and the alloy is different. also if I recall correctly fewer THICKER plates on the Deep Cycle.

For my bass boat I two types of marine batteries. One marine starter like what you have. This provides enough juice quickly to start my engine which recharges that battery. The other three are deep cycle marine batteries to constantly run my trolling motor. Those batteries last several days before needing a charge. That’s the difference. Hope that helps

SoundGuy wrote:Deep cycle, not deep cell ;) ... and very few batteries really are truly deep cycle. It you'd paid for this battery and actually use it for dry camping then there may be reason for concern but since it was given to you you're ahead of the curve no matter how you look at it. :D If you normally camp on electric sites then this marine battery will work just fine for the purpose as long as you properly maintain it, it's only when you actually intend to rely on battery reserve to get you through a few days of dry camping that the type & number of batteries becomes an issue. Decide first what your need is then match the number and type of battery to this need ... in my case I've only had one, in fact on our first couple of popups I had none. ;)I have been trying to use it to dry camp.... No I know why it did not end well.

Marien Starting Battery =/= Deep cell battery | Good Sam Community

33 Replies

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nov 11, 2018
azrving,

That depends on the design. My fridge on propane runs through approximately 35 amp-hours per day. Duty cycle is 2:3.
azrving
Explorer
Nov 11, 2018
swimmer_spe wrote:
azrving wrote:
Do you have a propane refrigerator?

yup

If I tell you that the fridge pulls X amps the nitpickers will be on it like flies on stink arguing over a milliamp. Your propane fridge circuit board and gas valve use 12 v all the time. Amp draw goes up a little when the the gas valve opens.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Nov 11, 2018
You get a Francis Freas hydrometer.

http://freasglass.com/

or

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4619-Professional-Battery-Hydrometer/dp/B0050SFVHO/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1541974009&sr=1-5&keywords=hydrometer
swimmer_spe
Explorer
Nov 11, 2018
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
$1.99 three light indicator

Like a weatherman licking his finger, holding it up to the wind and declaring "cold snap coming next week".

Or a backyard chemist suddenly yelling "RUN !"

Or using an hourglass instead of a speedometer when a cop is on your tail

Wanna see an RV manufacturer scream? Tell him something is going up s dollar in price.

Wall monitors for voltage may cost five dollars. They are not worth 99 cents

Ok, so what do I get? leme guess something expensive that won't really tell me much more....
swimmer_spe
Explorer
Nov 11, 2018
azrving wrote:
Do you have a propane refrigerator?

yup
swimmer_spe
Explorer
Nov 11, 2018
bikendan wrote:
swimmer_spe wrote:
bikendan wrote:
swimmer_spe wrote:
azrving wrote:
swimmer_spe wrote:
azrving wrote:
What voltages are you seeing as you use it? Have you checked the gravity?

I had it tested and it is good. But I kept killing it. Tells it is still a good battery, but not up for what I need it for.

Maybe you need more than one. Even a true deep cycle may not help you if you try to pull too many amp hours. I run six GC2 and use all they have. Do an energy audit.

Hoow do I do one? Only thing besides the lights is the furnace.

Suggest you Google "the 12 Volt Side of Life". Your battery is used for more than just lights.

Besides the CO/smoke detector there is nothing else, unless you count the odd time I turn the pump on.

I have no other powered things. I don't have things that have residual power consumption.

The radio clock uses power and some Dometic fridges have a Climate Control feature that drains battery power when not plugged into shore power.

None of those on my trailer.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Nov 10, 2018
$1.99 three light indicator

Like a weatherman licking his finger, holding it up to the wind and declaring "cold snap coming next week".

Or a backyard chemist suddenly yelling "RUN !"

Or using an hourglass instead of a speedometer when a cop is on your tail

Wanna see an RV manufacturer scream? Tell him something is going up s dollar in price.

Wall monitors for voltage may cost five dollars. They are not worth 99 cents
azrving
Explorer
Nov 10, 2018
Do you have a propane refrigerator?
bikendan
Explorer
Nov 10, 2018
swimmer_spe wrote:
bikendan wrote:
swimmer_spe wrote:
azrving wrote:
swimmer_spe wrote:
azrving wrote:
What voltages are you seeing as you use it? Have you checked the gravity?

I had it tested and it is good. But I kept killing it. Tells it is still a good battery, but not up for what I need it for.

Maybe you need more than one. Even a true deep cycle may not help you if you try to pull too many amp hours. I run six GC2 and use all they have. Do an energy audit.

Hoow do I do one? Only thing besides the lights is the furnace.

Suggest you Google "the 12 Volt Side of Life". Your battery is used for more than just lights.

Besides the CO/smoke detector there is nothing else, unless you count the odd time I turn the pump on.

I have no other powered things. I don't have things that have residual power consumption.

The radio clock uses power and some Dometic fridges have a Climate Control feature that drains battery power when not plugged into shore power.
swimmer_spe
Explorer
Nov 10, 2018
bikendan wrote:
swimmer_spe wrote:
azrving wrote:
swimmer_spe wrote:
azrving wrote:
What voltages are you seeing as you use it? Have you checked the gravity?

I had it tested and it is good. But I kept killing it. Tells it is still a good battery, but not up for what I need it for.

Maybe you need more than one. Even a true deep cycle may not help you if you try to pull too many amp hours. I run six GC2 and use all they have. Do an energy audit.

Hoow do I do one? Only thing besides the lights is the furnace.

Suggest you Google "the 12 Volt Side of Life". Your battery is used for more than just lights.

Besides the CO/smoke detector there is nothing else, unless you count the odd time I turn the pump on.

I have no other powered things. I don't have things that have residual power consumption.