Forum Discussion
- mena661ExplorerBFL, it's time to add a couple of MW's to your herd. :) What's your credit card number?
- BFL13Explorer II
mena661 wrote:
I think Randy's asking $275 for the Powermax 100A. There's no stages, you are the stages. :)
.......
IMO there are two automatic stages once you set a voltage with the knob:
-Bulk while it ramps up the battery voltage to the voltage you set,
- Absorption where it does the absorption stage at the voltage you set, and then it stays there at that voltage forever as the Float unless you change that voltage
Other Stages are not automatic but are done by you with the knob:
Finish
Top
Equalize
Float
Stirring - mena661ExplorerI think Randy's asking $275 for the Powermax 100A. There's no stages, you are the stages. :)
ken white wrote:
That's true. I would only be using the low 15V range at most (it would be in the high 14's for charging) so I should be under it's max draw.
Don't operate it at its maximum output current and it will work fine.
It may even work at or very near maximum output current since its specifications are so close to 15 amps... - BFL13Explorer II
landyacht318 wrote:
09FLSTC wrote:
Install this weekend hopefully.
I want pics of the internals, and plotted charts on depleted batteries, or it didn't happen.
Kidding. What does the 100 amper with trim pot run for?
Prototype PowerMax variable 100 amper
Ignore damaged thermistor on left, now fixed. Red wires on right go to the four 40a reverse polarity fuses. External fan is on left--it blows air in. Vertical board lower middle with white wire on top--that wire is on the board where the little blue internal pot goes on the regular converters, but here there is no pot, but the white wire goes to the bottom (inside the lid) of the external knob on the lid that adjusts the voltage.
EDIT--so be careful if you take the lid off. The wires aren't very long and you do not want to yank the pot's wire off the top of that vertical circuit board (don't ask!) unless you like soldering while praying it will ever work again (mine still works :) )
Mena I don't know which ones Randy has on offer besides the three he shows, but the PM site shows a 120a one now as the biggie. Randy's site does not make clear if his version of the variable 75 is PF corrected like the regular converter 75s are. - ken_whiteExplorer
mena661 wrote:
Voltage is 120 at the power supply but the MH is plugged into a 15A circuit. So if I use ken's very handy calculations I'm looking at 15.12A from the Mean Well. Just a bit too much from that circuit.
Don't operate it at its maximum output current and it will work fine.
It may even work at or very near maximum output current since its specifications are so close to 15 amps... - landyacht318Explorer
09FLSTC wrote:
Install this weekend hopefully.
I want pics of the internals, and plotted charts on depleted batteries, or it didn't happen.
Kidding. What does the 100 amper with trim pot run for? - 09FLSTCExplorer
landyacht318 wrote:
I'm not seeing the 100 amper adjustable on bestconverters site.
Do these have any automatic triggers for reverting to float, or are they full manual like the MW's?
Pretty sure they are full manual and you are the trigger. Better know your stuff. Install this weekend hopefully. - landyacht318ExplorerI'm not seeing the 100 amper adjustable on bestconverters site.
Do these have any automatic triggers for reverting to float, or are they full manual like the MW's? - mena661ExplorerI'd like those Mean Well's but for the price of that 750W unit I can get the adjustable voltage, PF corrected Powermax 100A. The MegaWatt will indeed need the diode to run in parallel. The one you linked was the one I was going to buy. Shipping is only $5 to my house cause I live near the seller. I wish that 80A MegaWatt did more than 14.5V, I'd get that one. I did send the seller an email asking about specs. Will post his response.
- landyacht318ExplorerYou forgot Shipping, and the rectifier likely required to easily run them in parallel.
If I was sure the megawatt did not roll back current, I might have got the s-400, but the rsp-500-15 for me is money under the bridge, and I can dial in 16v when I want, but I can't go below 13.12v. Which was 13.34v before I wired in the 10 turn Potentiometer.
Everything's a compromise, always will be.
Shame they don't make a RSP 1425-14 which could work on a 15 amp outlet and had a range of 12.8 to 16.5v.
Dear MeanWell..... please design such and such a product, and I guarantee 1 person would buy it, maybe.
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