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Travel_glampers's avatar
Apr 05, 2021

Model PD9280A converter problems

I am trying to replace the above original converter in my fiver (with same model converter). The first attempt resulted in 0 volts DC coming out of the converter, with it being plugged into 120 volts AC (meter check shows 120 volts). The second converter, again being plugged into 120 volts, showed 8.4 volts coming out. Per the Progressive Dynamics (PD) tech, it should be putting out 13.6 volts. So I have paid to send both converters back to PD, so they can check them out. I am on my second set of new deep cycle batteries. Also have replaced land line to 30 amp house outlet, twist outlet on fiver this line hooks to, and the 120 volt 20 amp outlet the converter plugs into. Has anyone else experienced similar problems? Is there something(s) I'm missing?
  • PD checked both converters out. Both checked out fine. I received one back and installed it. Dennis at PD went the extra mile trouble shooting with me. Got consistent 120 volts at outlet converter plugs into (removed surge protector which showed some arching). 13.7 volts coming out of converter. Positive line running to battery compartment, hooks to a relay (I believe). The second post of the relay has a positive line running on to the batteries, with several other smaller lines hooked to it. Several years ago this thing started clicking. As it clicks the voltage at the battery posts changes from 11.3 volts to 12.5 volts, and back again. Is this caused by a bad relay? Called Jayco tech support and was told to take it to a dealer. My trustworthy dealer has retired and closed up shop, unfortunately.
  • I'm replacing the relay (shortstop 12v s49 50a). It's reading 13.7v at one post and 11.3v at the other.
  • Get rid of that fire starter. Replace with a 100 amp Hi-Amp Bussman.

    80 amp converter feeding the battery through a 50 amp shortstop is only trouble.
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    I have only installed one replacement PD converter (a 9180 and I reused the charge wizard dongle)

    NOTE with the 9280 you use either no dongle or a different one.

    I do not know where you are but PD is located in Marshall, Michigan.

    Google Maps: Brooks Memorial Fountain, Marshall MI
    Then slide south to Industrial (road or whatever) not very far at all

    They are on the corner
  • Per guidance from Dennis at PD, I am replacing the CB with a manual reset Buzzman CB 185 series 100 amp.

    Thanks for all the help!!
  • 3_tons's avatar
    3_tons
    Explorer III
    I had the GOOD Fortune to deal with Dennis a couple years back on a new start camper build with LiFePO4 batt - He is a solid 100% EXPERT, so be sure and trust his sage guidance!

    3 tons
  • Agreed. Dennis/PD went the extra mile to get me straightened out. I recommend them highly.
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    Note when checking voltages in and out measure at the Converter's connections. If you measure 120 volt at the breaker.. that is no guarantee it is getting to the converter (I had that problem with my Air Conditioners. 120 volt at the termional on teh breaker, nothing on the wire stuck in the clamp as the screw was loose.. had it with my converter too, it was a 'P' Model (plug in) plug out.

    Likewise measure at the converter, and the batteires. that would have found the problem "Downline" of the converter.

    I also like to use test lights when I can rather than meters. Put like a one amp load on the line

    Had one wire in my RV once 13.6 measured on one end. close to it on the other with the high impedeance meter... NOTHING with the light... Yup one solid length of wire The problem was about 1-1.5 feet from the battery... Cut and spliced and all good.

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