I spent a lot of time replacing one motor, rack and parts on one end, controller. etc..... It worked for a while now when trying to open it moves about one half inch and stops. It will reverse with no problem but each time I try to get it out, it stops after one half inch movement. There is no visible code on the controller. If a wait a while, it will go out another half inch and stop. Like I said there is no code. I can peak in and the rollers are fine as are the racks and other parts. If I use the controller to override the system, it goes in and out as smooth as silk. I called the factory and they said they could not help me. The 4 6 volt batteries are fully charged and brand new. I can see buy searching that schwintec's are problematic. I just want it to work so I can trade the trailer in. Thanks in advance for any help. David

Subscribing. I have the system on our new TT and have been lucky so far. I'm trying to learn from all these posts before I have to jump in head deep.

what you are describing is the board is saying the motors are outvof sync.Try a system reset and when you let it in and out let it do its thing dont stop it as it throws the computer off

Have you tried a continuity check on the cables?

It could be the alignment is off between the slide and opening or between the racks themselves. This system is not very forgiving when they have some idiot installing them at the factory on a piecework basis, who cares more about how many he does a day as opposed to if they actually work.Download every piece of info and manual at Lippert.What do the teeth on the racks look like? It's easy to mistake aluminum dust from the gears grinding on the racks for lubricant when they are not aligned correctly.Measure from bottom rack to top rack, those should be the same / parallel, and a specific dimension based on the configuration of the bearing blocks. Measure length of the box itself top and bottom, and diagonally corner to corner for square, same with the opening. I don't have my info handy but there is a dimension the box needs to be smaller in relation to the opening, I think it's 4 1/2" shorter than opening width. 2 1/4" per side from memory, check the Lippert manuals. There is not much fudge factor here. Are the columns mounted parallel with each other? That can be a tough measurement to check depending on the unit.I have repaired / re aligned at least a dozen and about half the time have ended up having to remove the slide. It's a lot of trial and error. A few we have done were so far out of whack from the factory it's amazing they ever worked at all. You could watch the slide twist while extending it due to being out of alignment.Another quick check is to disengage the motors and see how it feels moving the slide by hand. This takes two people on a large slide. I have also found that the larger the slide, the more problematic they usually are. Lots of brands cheaped out using these on large slides, and have since went back to a conventional through the frame or other type.I'm not a fan of anything Lippert but a lot of the time Schwintek issues can be traced back to the OEM installation.

One thing to remember on these, always keep the button pressed until the motors shut themselves off- don't just release the switch as soon as the room hits the limit.nAlso, you can download the MyLCI app for Android or iOS which has all of the manuals and parts lists.

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tvfrfireman
Explorer
Nov 30, 2017
I kept tinkering with this schwintek slide and if finally threw the same code that indicates it is the #1 motor or the wire from the controller to the #1 motor. Installed new motor and wire and it still gives the same code. If anyone knows a sharp RV tech in the Portland Orgego metro area, could you please private message me with a contact number and name. I would be great for this and thanks again for your replies
dougrainer
Nomad
Nov 27, 2017
joebedford wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
joebedford wrote:
Oh, I must have misunderstood about the voltage.

I know my slides move much faster in override than in normal operation.

It got into my head somehow that they did PWM in normal operation to keep the motors in sync.

They move faster because they are not counting the revolutions.
Mmmmm okaaaayy?

So when the motors get out of sync, what does the controller do? I'm guessing interrupt power to the one that's ahead until the slow one gets caught up. From my observation,that interruption could be from fractions of a second to a second - if it takes longer than that to catch up, the controller stops both motors.

This I do not know. All I know is, to get BOTH in synch, you hold the extend or retract button for 10 seconds AFTER full retraction or extension and that always resets the counter. IF the motors get too far out of synch(Do NOT know what that parameter is) it will shut down the extension or retraction. It is VERY fast (300 rpm). Doug
joebedford
Nomad II
Nov 27, 2017
dougrainer wrote:
joebedford wrote:
Oh, I must have misunderstood about the voltage.

I know my slides move much faster in override than in normal operation.

It got into my head somehow that they did PWM in normal operation to keep the motors in sync.

They move faster because they are not counting the revolutions.
Mmmmm okaaaayy?

So when the motors get out of sync, what does the controller do? I'm guessing interrupt power to the one that's ahead until the slow one gets caught up. From my observation,that interruption could be from fractions of a second to a second - if it takes longer than that to catch up, the controller stops both motors.
loggenrock
Explorer
Nov 27, 2017
fpresto's comment about holding the switch on after the room has retracted/extended is the same info I got from my dealer (not some YouTube video...). It apparently "resets" the controller memory as to how many revolutions the motors have made. So far so good... ST
dougrainer
Nomad
Nov 26, 2017
joebedford wrote:
Oh, I must have misunderstood about the voltage.

I know my slides move much faster in override than in normal operation.

It got into my head somehow that they did PWM in normal operation to keep the motors in sync.

They move faster because they are not counting the revolutions. You could disconnect the control box and use just each motor Black and Red motor wires and wire in a double throw switch and run the system direct. Doug
joebedford
Nomad II
Nov 26, 2017
Oh, I must have misunderstood about the voltage.

I know my slides move much faster in override than in normal operation.

It got into my head somehow that they did PWM in normal operation to keep the motors in sync.
dougrainer
Nomad
Nov 25, 2017
tvfrfireman wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
joebedford wrote:
As I understand it, the override also puts fill battery voltage on the motors. When in sync'd mode the motors don't get full voltage and may not be able to overcome some resistance.

Just yesterday my bedroom slide wasn't fully closing. I discovered that one of the rubber wipes was getting wrapped around a bottom roller - I cut it away and end of problem (except for the fact that part of the wipe is missing).

The always get full voltage. What you may mean is, the AMP kick out is gone in override mode. Override supplies direct power to each motor and bypasses all other control functions. Doug
Doug: Behind the paper covering on the controller is a hole that exposes the adjustment on the "Stall Force". I found this on the internet and asked the guy at the factory if I should turn the adjustment up to give the motor more voltage. He got upset and told me not to mess with it as it is set at the factory. Now wouldn't you think a 13 foot slide would need more force than and six foot side? How does the factory know when they send out a controller how much force is required on the slide? I am tempted to adjust the stall force screw since Lippert has no help for me. I guess they want to walk out and open the compartment door, look up with a flashlight and use the override system every time I use the slide from here
on out. How can I ever sell the fifth wheel with a mess like this?

The reason the LCI guy got upset is because that screw pot is covered by the paper label. STALL force is NOT voltage. It is caused by the increased AMP draw when a motor attempts to keep running when the motor cannot. Its amp draw increases(like the room is fully retracted or extended) Once the controller sees that it shuts down power to the motor/s. So, the stall force is supposedly preset. BUT, on a few when I decide to see where it is set, they always seem to be at MAX stall force. You can back it off, but it is already at Max. Doug
tvfrfireman
Explorer
Nov 25, 2017
dougrainer wrote:
joebedford wrote:
As I understand it, the override also puts fill battery voltage on the motors. When in sync'd mode the motors don't get full voltage and may not be able to overcome some resistance.

Just yesterday my bedroom slide wasn't fully closing. I discovered that one of the rubber wipes was getting wrapped around a bottom roller - I cut it away and end of problem (except for the fact that part of the wipe is missing).

The always get full voltage. What you may mean is, the AMP kick out is gone in override mode. Override supplies direct power to each motor and bypasses all other control functions. Doug
Doug: Behind the paper covering on the controller is a hole that exposes the adjustment on the "Stall Force". I found this on the internet and asked the guy at the factory if I should turn the adjustment up to give the motor more voltage. He got upset and told me not to mess with it as it is set at the factory. Now wouldn't you think a 13 foot slide would need more force than and six foot side? How does the factory know when they send out a controller how much force is required on the slide? I am tempted to adjust the stall force screw since Lippert has no help for me. I guess they want to walk out and open the compartment door, look up with a flashlight and use the override system every time I use the slide from here
on out. How can I ever sell the fifth wheel with a mess like this?
dougrainer
Nomad
Nov 25, 2017
joebedford wrote:
As I understand it, the override also puts fill battery voltage on the motors. When in sync'd mode the motors don't get full voltage and may not be able to overcome some resistance.

Just yesterday my bedroom slide wasn't fully closing. I discovered that one of the rubber wipes was getting wrapped around a bottom roller - I cut it away and end of problem (except for the fact that part of the wipe is missing).

The always get full voltage. What you may mean is, the AMP kick out is gone in override mode. Override supplies direct power to each motor and bypasses all other control functions. Doug
joebedford
Nomad II
Nov 25, 2017
As I understand it, the override also puts fill battery voltage on the motors. When in sync'd mode the motors don't get full voltage and may not be able to overcome some resistance.

Just yesterday my bedroom slide wasn't fully closing. I discovered that one of the rubber wipes was getting wrapped around a bottom roller - I cut it away and end of problem (except for the fact that part of the wipe is missing).

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