Forum Discussion
- Artum_SnowbirdExplorerNormally when things are terribly dim the reason becomes more obvious once you take off the tail light covers.
In your case, I think you have not got a good ground on one filament, so the hot wire feeds to the light, then it cannot come back but it still has a path out and it goes to the other side where it likely comes back through a brake light filament that doesn't glow because it's thick, then another run light filament, and then finds it's way out on a ground. - Dick_BExplorerNot sure this is applicable but some folks route the ground wire in a loop so that the `ground' signal has two ways to get back to the source.
- SteveBExplorerWhat type of tail light converter?
- HandbasketExplorerDo I misremember, or do some bulbs have the same base, with different wattages and numbers? I'm thinking some online research on what if any bulbs share the same base as yours in different numbers & wattages.
Jim, "Bigamy is having one wife too many. Monogamy is sometimes the same." - beemerphile1ExplorerI'm confused why you would even use a converter. Add separate turn signals and get rid of the converter.
Of course a picture of the lights would be more helpful. - westendExplorerI'll guess...Mazda B2200, around an '87, '88? I had a '90 and the tail light wiring was distributed independently for function, IIRC. I have a manual, I'll check the schematic.
Edit: Checked the manual, '86 and later models: Backup lights-27W, turn and hazards on one circuit-controlled by combination switch-27W, stop lights-controlled by brake switch-27W, Tail and side marker & license light paralleled, 8W,6W. You should have four power leads compared to somewhat standard trailer wiring of three power leads and a ground. - WageSlaveEscapiExplorer"In your case, I think you have not got a good ground on one filament"
-Yeah, I noticed that before but it seems that with the new ground wire installed this is not the issue any more.
"Not sure this is applicable but some folks route the ground wire in a loop so that the `ground' signal has two ways to get back to the source.
-Good idea. I suppose that means to put a ground wire from the other light to the ground on the frame of the truck instead of connecting the grounds from each light. I'll try that, thanks
"What type of tail light converter? "
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taillight-Converter-with-4-Flat-3-wire-to-2-wire-Model-Standard-/161036560275?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257e86e793
4-Flat 3 wire to 2 wire non powered
" Do I misremember, or do some bulbs have the same base, with different wattages and numbers?"
Idk. But the lights I have are sealed, and I have the same issue with the trailer lights installed on my flatbed when I hook those up instead.
I'm confused why you would even use a converter. Add separate turn signals and get rid of the converter. Of course a picture would help"
-I need the converter because my trucks lights had separate lights for each signal. I wanted to use trailer tail lights so I could rig up some cheap lights, so this was the solution.
I've tried 2 different types of lights. I only connect two at a time, either for my camper or my flatbed. Both are dim.
on my camper:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=GRO530825_0006498027
on my flatbed:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=GRO52452_0006498018
"I'll guess...Mazda B2200, around an '87, '88? I had a '90 and the tail light wiring was distributed independently for function, IIRC"
-Yeah, it's an 83 b2200. Thats correct, the wiring was distributed independently for function before I put on the tail light converter.
Thanks for the help guys, let's hope I figure this out. Otherwise I can only drive my rig at night..
edit: turns out I have 8v at the tail light connector. cleaned the fuse box contacts, still no good. I guess I'll clean the connector contacts then rewire it if it still is no good. Also, it's flashing so fast that it doesn't have time to get completely dark, so that's another thing making it dim (flasher).
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