My rear electric stabilizer is not working.

Update. I removed the switch and then it suddenly worked. I went ahead and crimped the wires connector to be sure. I will also order a new switch in case this one is on its way out.

myredracer wrote:
You might have a mini circuit breaker at the rear near the motor on the stabilizer. Our TT does. It may have failed. Could be the switch - pull it out, see if there is 12 volts present and use a jumper to see if you can make the jack work. Could be a bad ground connection and easy to check with a multimeter. The mini breakers are usually auto-reset and if no 12 volts on either terminal on it, it's a faulty breaker (if wired before the switch as it *should* be).

I remember looking at a Lippert wiring diagram earlier this year and they call for a fuse AND a circuit breaker but I can't find the actual Lippert document at the moment. The diagram below is a Lippert diagram from etrailer. I would expect the ground connection to be near the switch or jack, not at the battery and it's anybody's guess where it is exactly. Fuse would be in case of a short and breaker for an overload. On a 2015 unit, I wouldn't expect a faulty motor and a bad connection or switch is more likely the culprit. The switch is DPDT and just reverses polarity to the motor.

We didn't have any fuses in our TT and the wire gauge was smaller than what Lippert specs. Our rear jack is actually wired in series with a mini breaker in the A-frame and the one by the jack. Don't expect your TT to necessarily be wired how Lippert shows it. Starting back at the battery, the tongue jack and 2 stab jacks should be able to still work if the mini breaker feeding the converter panel trips.

The rear stabilizer on my recently purchased Passport 195RB would not work. Traced it to a bad mini circuit breaker mounted on the frame rail immediately above the stabilizer motor. On my RV the breaker is wired after the extend/retract switch. It is a 6 amp breaker intended to protect the motor not the wiring.

railrode1 wrote:
Your motor likely has water in it. I fixed my brother's. His had plastic, push on sleeves that was a moisture magnet. The brush Springs rusted and had no tension left. Cleaned motor up and new brush springs was good as new. We left off the sleeves this time.

Heh, in my case, the water got in and froze. So motor didn't work.

After warming it up and drying everything out, discovered the sleeve had a hole, replaced it and used gobs of dielectric grease where the sleeve ended to keep water out. So far so good.

You might have a mini circuit breaker at the rear near the motor on the stabilizer. Our TT does. It may have failed. Could be the switch - pull it out, see if there is 12 volts present and use a jumper to see if you can make the jack work. Could be a bad ground connection and easy to check with a multimeter. The mini breakers are usually auto-reset and if no 12 volts on either terminal on it, it's a faulty breaker (if wired before the switch as it *should* be).

I remember looking at a Lippert wiring diagram earlier this year and they call for a fuse AND a circuit breaker but I can't find the actual Lippert document at the moment. The diagram below is a Lippert diagram from etrailer. I would expect the ground connection to be near the switch or jack, not at the battery and it's anybody's guess where it is exactly. Fuse would be in case of a short and breaker for an overload. On a 2015 unit, I wouldn't expect a faulty motor and a bad connection or switch is more likely the culprit. The switch is DPDT and just reverses polarity to the motor.

We didn't have any fuses in our TT and the wire gauge was smaller than what Lippert specs. Our rear jack is actually wired in series with a mini breaker in the A-frame and the one by the jack. Don't expect your TT to necessarily be wired how Lippert shows it. Starting back at the battery, the tongue jack and 2 stab jacks should be able to still work if the mini breaker feeding the converter panel trips.

Sounds like nothing works? If so I can't help except to check connections and wiggle them. That worked for mine for a while after I removed the connections cleaned and greased them

My motor then stopped moving the legs although it continued to work. Found that the key between the motor and gear had stripped. I now use a cordless drill to raise and lower. Some day I will remove again and maybe drill a small hole through the gear and shaft and pin them.

Your motor likely has water in it. I fixed my brother's. His had plastic, push on sleeves that was a moisture magnet. The brush Springs rusted and had no tension left. Cleaned motor up and new brush springs was good as new. We left off the sleeves this time.

Moved from "General'

A voltmeter? Use it to see if there is 12V at the jack when the button is pressed. If so the motor is most likely bad.

Might help if you provided just a smidgen of information, like make, model, etc, of the stabilizer.