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MrWizard's avatar
MrWizard
Moderator
Jul 13, 2015

need a positive circuit solar controller

or use a DROK voltage buck booster as an intermediate step

what i need is a charge controller that controls the V+ output
the majority of controllers use common connection for all the Plus connections and control the output via the negative side

this works as long as you can isolate panel negative and battery negative

which is Easy to do on a new install

but i have situation where i can't find and separate the negative line from an OEM solar panel wiring, old panel has been replaced
the original was 5w~10w trickle maintenance for the chassis battery, using only a blocking diode in the positive feed and the panel negative wire is tied into chassis wiring someplace, and only the positive wire was run up front to the fuse panels for connection
using a normal controller ties all the positives together, i have to use jumper wires to the negative BUS for both sides in and out and they are common, batteries in back panel hot wire up front, negative unknown

since using an isolated negative is not possible
need a controller with control in the positive side of the circuit
or maybe a voltage buck booster between the panel positive and the power connections terminal block

a DROK between the solar controller and the panel might provide isolation and voltage boost
panel into DROK (which would only function when the panel was producing power )
booster output connected to input of solar controller
we are talking a max of 90w power,
my memory from our previous discussions , says these are common neg, with the positive out put floating and controlled
which should work for this project

comments please

36 Replies

  • the "obvious way" means a long run of new wire, via the same route, and placing another controller in that storage bay..the OEM connection is up front behind the hatch/hood
    just to supply a maintenance float voltage on the chassis batteries
    which are located in the same tray as the OEM house batteries (there are SIX batteries) in that tray, (2) chassis (4) house

    the obvious way is what i'm trying to avoid

    i can get 13+ float voltage now .
    the problem is it is a continuous connection with NO regulation and will back feed the panels and these place a drain after dark because of the double common circuits {i could get the same results wiring direct with NO controller}
    the negatives are wire common, the controller is wired positive common, there is NO control, its as if it was bypassed wired with jumpers
    it is because the panel NEG is grounded common someplace not separated and brought to the OEM diode location to be attached to the controller
    the controller switching the NEG is bypassed, by the way things are wired

    the controllers mentioned so far are nice, but cost more than i want to invest , and more amps capability than the panels involved
  • I went with a Phocos controller and remote status panel, they can be positive or negative ground.
    http://www.phocos.com/product_charge_controller.html
  • The obvious solution is to run a new pair of wires so that you know exactly what you have. As I recall you've run wires before so...

    Have you checked the Sunsaver controllers? Not sure what it controls and the manual does show isolated array input.

    My MPPT 60 has common negative and hence grounded connections if that is a option for you. Maybe check the higher powered MS PMW controllers.

    Let us know if the DC-DC converter works OK.
  • Positive Ground means positive common
    Check it out with the wiring disconnected
    All the positive terminals are connected to together panel battery and load
    The negative side is controlled

    On this instance I need to control the positive side, or rewire the whole "fan dango" ..
  • In the Outback FM60 and FM80 the controlling is done in the positive lead. The PV- and battery - are tied together in the controller. It only needs a negative connection to the battery -. You can just connect PV+, Batt +, and negative.
  • I don't understand the OP situation at all, but if it is any help (not a clue) I do know there are some solar controllers that are "positive ground" which may or may not also mean they control from the other side like Mr Wiz wants. Eg the EP Solar, "Landstar" I had was positive ground.

    In the RV no grounds are used for the solar, so it made no difference, but even with no actual grounds in effect, maybe it controls from the other side? Not a clue, sorry.

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