Need Inverter Wiring Help !
I plan on installing a 1500 watt inverter in my class B MH. I would like the unit to power all the outlets although it will only really be used for a hair dryer and microwave. The inverter I am lo...
Forum Discussion
Hi Jim,
While I'm sure your system works for you, it would not be my cup of tea.
My RV acts as if it were plugged into shore power all the time with 3000 watts of continuous capacity. I can even heat electrically from the battery bank for one night at -5 C.
I often urbandock where there are multiple 15 amp circuits available. So I have the OEM shore power cord, and two auxiliary, one for the converter (and plugs), one for the water heater (and plugs).
I often used double conversion for the OEM circuits where there was only a single 15 amp circuit. My default is for the converter and water heater to be unplugged from the OEM wiring and plugged into the auxiliary shore power cords.
Only the fridge needs to be switched. If I am driving, I operate it from the inverter/battery bank/alternator/solar. In summer time if there is excess solar power I use the water heater on the electric setting for a few minutes so that I'm not wasting solar watts.
It takes about 20 seconds to "patch" the wiring back to OEM.
When you leave a campground, you unplug from shore power and stow the cord. When I leave I unplug from shore power, plug into the inverter and stow the cord.
I can't have the often reported problem of a failed transfer switch. Your system requires at least two transfer switches, and when they fail, (it is always when, and not if) unless there is a way to by pass them the trip may be impinged upon in a negative manner.
I live in my RV full time. I heat electrically down to -37 C. I can't afford to have a transfer switch fail.
Because of the patch board I can run the roof air, fridge, and water heater all at the same time from a Yamaha 3000 iSEB even when I am at 7000 feet in the mountains. If I am driving the engine alternator will provide part of the load. If the alternator shows signs of overload I can switch off the charging path from the engine.
My generator is equipped with remote start.
And those are the reasons for me having a "patch board".
While I'm sure your system works for you, it would not be my cup of tea.
My RV acts as if it were plugged into shore power all the time with 3000 watts of continuous capacity. I can even heat electrically from the battery bank for one night at -5 C.
I often urbandock where there are multiple 15 amp circuits available. So I have the OEM shore power cord, and two auxiliary, one for the converter (and plugs), one for the water heater (and plugs).
I often used double conversion for the OEM circuits where there was only a single 15 amp circuit. My default is for the converter and water heater to be unplugged from the OEM wiring and plugged into the auxiliary shore power cords.
Only the fridge needs to be switched. If I am driving, I operate it from the inverter/battery bank/alternator/solar. In summer time if there is excess solar power I use the water heater on the electric setting for a few minutes so that I'm not wasting solar watts.
It takes about 20 seconds to "patch" the wiring back to OEM.
When you leave a campground, you unplug from shore power and stow the cord. When I leave I unplug from shore power, plug into the inverter and stow the cord.
I can't have the often reported problem of a failed transfer switch. Your system requires at least two transfer switches, and when they fail, (it is always when, and not if) unless there is a way to by pass them the trip may be impinged upon in a negative manner.
I live in my RV full time. I heat electrically down to -37 C. I can't afford to have a transfer switch fail.
Because of the patch board I can run the roof air, fridge, and water heater all at the same time from a Yamaha 3000 iSEB even when I am at 7000 feet in the mountains. If I am driving the engine alternator will provide part of the load. If the alternator shows signs of overload I can switch off the charging path from the engine.
My generator is equipped with remote start.
And those are the reasons for me having a "patch board".
time_to_go_now wrote:pianotuna wrote:
I use a system of male and female plugs to configure the RV for inverter use.
Who needs a system? Like Wa8 said, inverter to sub panel. Move outlets that need to be inverted to sub panel.
Done. No system of plugs. My family just uses the motorhome. They don't know whether power is coming from shore, genny, or inverter.
Who wants to mess around with plug this and unplug that???
