I've been on the road for 8 years, about 25K miles. The previous owner took one 1000 mile trip. I think these are the original brakes. This is the only one of the four that was like this. The pieces came tumbling out when I pulled the drum off. I was on some very rough road last summer. Has anyone replaced just the brake pads? I happen to have the 7200 lb brake assembly which is much more expensive than the 7000 lb assembly. ($250 for the whole shebang v. $60 for the shoes. If it's not that big of deal to do just the shoes I might dot that. I know you need a spring stretching tool. But what about all the wires that seem to run through the shoes?Thanks...

When I worked every salesman had a trailer with electric brakes. When we did brakes we only replaced the shoes and a hardware kit. We also turned the drum if needed.

Have you tried Etrailer.com? I would buy the whole assembly.

I only purchase complete assemblies now. They are easier to find, and you can change it out very quickly. When you purchase replacements, make sure you get self adjusting brakes and not the typical manual adjusting brakes that most manufacturers install.

Yes the whole assembly because I would be getting disks :B

I will have to deal with brakes this year. In my case I have found that if I bought brake shoes and magnets, which have the same wear, I would spend almost the same as complete assemblies. So that is my plan and probably from Etrailer.

New brake shoes or full assembly? | Good Sam Community

cannesdo
Explorer
Feb 26, 2016
ok, thanks...I called the suspension guy and he said if you're only changing out the shoes, not a big deal, but if you replace the magnet (whole assembly) then the newer magnet will be stronger. Then he recommends you def. do both sides. For what it's worth...

I'm going to do the one then take it or a test drive when I go to get my new tires. I'll let you know how it feels.
mpierce
Explorer
Feb 26, 2016
cannesdo wrote:
mpierce wrote:
At least replace both sides on the same axle.

Isn't the key making sure they're all just adjusted correctly?

I would do both sides. Yes, proper adjusting helps, a lot. But, they will still wear out different, and may brake differently. I would balance. One may be happy not doing it.
cannesdo
Explorer
Feb 26, 2016
mpierce wrote:
At least replace both sides on the same axle.

Because my brakes were never adjusted (lesson learned, this is my first RV) They all have pads in various states of wear. None of them match. This whole project has taken a lot longer than I anticipated and I really need to just get it to a place where it's road worthy. What are you saying could happen if you adjust all the brakes but available brake pad doesn't match perfectly?
cannesdo
Explorer
Feb 26, 2016
3oaks wrote:
Eastern Marine has 7.2K break assemblies for $163.95.

Yes, that's the best price I've found. I ordered just the shoes from Nick's for $44.
3oaks
Explorer
Feb 26, 2016
Eastern Marine has 7.2K break assemblies for $163.95.
Dave2001
Explorer
Feb 26, 2016
Check Eastern Marine. I bought my brake assemblies in March and at that time they had an annual sale going on. So the price was really reasonable. It is quicker and easier to do the whole assembly. As previously stated do both sides on an axle at the same time.
cannesdo
Explorer
Feb 25, 2016
phillyg wrote:
I would normally say go with the entire assembly, but the prices you quoted are very far apart. If you have the expertise, shoe replacement is very simple and the magnet wires do not get in the way.

It looks like they run through the part that needs removing on the 7200s. May have to cut the wires and re-connect.
cannesdo
Explorer
Feb 25, 2016
j-d wrote:
Do you know if this fiver requires the 7200's, or was maybe the supplier out of 7000's and substituted what they had?
Maybe you could swap back to the common 7000's, but the trailer's GVWR and the design of the axle spindles would have to allow it.
Alternatively, you could go a long ways on a set of shoes.
I'm concerned that one set of shoes fell apart when the rest didn't. Any signs that brake dragged and got overheated?
Recommended to do the same thing to both sides because the friction characteristics can be different if only one set of shoes/pads is replaced or one drum/rotor is re-surfaced.

I just replaced my shocks and re-greased all the bearings. Been at this for 3-4 weekends now. I'm not up for re-doing everything. The rig weight 15000 lbs. The axles are 7000's. Don't know why they went with the 7200s but I'm not up for changing everything out right now and would rather go with the beefier break anyway. I'll be getting new tires in a few weeks so I'll see how they feel when I go out to do that. For now I think I'd just like to replace the shoes. I like learning new things.
phillyg
Explorer II
Feb 25, 2016
I would normally say go with the entire assembly, but the prices you quoted are very far apart. If you have the expertise, shoe replacement is very simple and the magnet wires do not get in the way.
j-d
Explorer II
Feb 25, 2016
Do you know if this fiver requires the 7200's, or was maybe the supplier out of 7000's and substituted what they had?
Maybe you could swap back to the common 7000's, but the trailer's GVWR and the design of the axle spindles would have to allow it.
Alternatively, you could go a long ways on a set of shoes.
I'm concerned that one set of shoes fell apart when the rest didn't. Any signs that brake dragged and got overheated?
Recommended to do the same thing to both sides because the friction characteristics can be different if only one set of shoes/pads is replaced or one drum/rotor is re-surfaced.

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