New brakes, need help

To expand on my previous post. When I purchased my new Aluma-Lite 6X10 in 2008 the owners manual contained instructions on the proper way to seat/bed the brakes.
Randy

rightlaneonly wrote:
I thank each one of you for your replies. I'm going to work on the system today and try the solutions suggested from cleaning the drums and shoes ( I hate pulling the wheels again) to driving it around to seat the shoes. The controller is a Drawtite Activator and is a time delayed one. I did use ten gauge wire. The trailer is an Aliner single axle pop up and is relatively light. About 1200 pounds loaded. I'll post what I find at the end of the day. Again, thanks for all the suggestions, they are greatly appreciated.

Highly recommend removing that Time Delayed Brake Controller, throwing in the trash and replacing with Motion Sensor / Proportional Brake Controller - like Prodigy P2 or P3 brand. If wondering, Time Delay delivers current flow in phases "based on longer time the brake pedal is pressed down". Very, very bad and these brake controllers will NOT initially grab - unless the brake pedal is pressed for some time. And, they don't grad in panic stops either. Thus, putting more stress on your Tow Vehicle brakes.

If wondering, I once installed a "timed" technology brake controller. Within 15 days, I removed and replaced with motion / proportional technology model. Knowing 1st hand experience with each, I will never go back to a timed technology BC again.

Seriously… Pull your your current "timed" BC, put in trash and replace with motion / proportional technology brake controller. Its well worth it!!!

Yep- what Randallb (and others) have said. Gotta get 'em hot a time or two before they work very well. But Do make sure that all the other stuff is correct (wiring, settings, etc.) first. Then go warm 'em up.

I thank each one of you for your replies. I'm going to work on the system today and try the solutions suggested from cleaning the drums and shoes ( I hate pulling the wheels again) to driving it around to seat the shoes. The controller is a Drawtite Activator and is a time delayed one. I did use ten gauge wire. The trailer is an Aliner single axle pop up and is relatively light. About 1200 pounds loaded. I'll post what I find at the end of the day. Again, thanks for all the suggestions, they are greatly appreciated.

Just wondering… What is the exact make/model of Brake Controller you installed within your 2009 Jeep Wrangler?

Unknown to some folks, not all Brake Controllers behave the same. Motion sensor (aka: Proportional) Brake Controllers like Prodigy P2 or P3 brand are the best (in full electric class). Their technology senses how fast the Tow Vehicle is going and applies the correct amount of current flow (to the trailer's brakes). Timed Controller don't care how fast the Tow Vehicle is going. It applies current in 3 different levels (re: 3 different phases) - even if the vehicle is going turtle speed in a slow traffic jam. IMO, Timed Brake Controllers should be pulled from all store shelves and trashed. And, ripped out of all existing Tow Vehicles and trashed as well. Yes, this "timed" technology is that dangerous. One should only use the Motion sensor (aka: Proportional) Technology Brake Controllers.

With above in mind, what is the exact make/model of your TV's Brake Controller?

randallb wrote:
If your brakes are adjusted correctly, the controller is adjusted according to the directions and you know they are actuating the fix is easy. Drive down the road at about 25-30 mph and actuate the manual lever on your controller. Repeat this cycle 3 or 4 times for about 30 seconds per actuation. You will feel the braking power increase as the shoes bed in. All new brakes need a few heat cycles to work correctly.

This post and method to "blanch / bed" the NEW brake linings is correct. I also perform this task on my trailer (when it gets new pads and/or hubs) as well. Good catch on this one.

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For trailer brake wiring, I highly recommend thick 10 gauge wiring (ouside the axle) and its install using STAR design (instead of usual linear design).

re:
- Linear Design / factory default -
- much better STAR design -
- Inner Hub area under my utility trailer -
- inner hub area under my boat trailer -


If STAR design is installed and still doesn't grab "like it should", remove each brake drum hub and "clean" the drum's contact area using brake cleaner spray. Some brake drum companies apply a thin coat of oil on brake drum's PAD area to reduce rust. Always clean this inner side contact area before installing on axle's hub. Many folks forget this cleaning step.

Hope this helps.

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If your brakes are adjusted correctly, the controller is adjusted according to the directions and you know they are actuating the fix is easy. Drive down the road at about 25-30 mph and actuate the manual lever on your controller. Repeat this cycle 3 or 4 times for about 30 seconds per actuation. You will feel the braking power increase as the shoes bed in. All new brakes need a few heat cycles to work correctly.

Rvpapa wrote:
Connect trailer to TV but DO NOT connect electric. Pull breakaway pin an try to move trailer. Wheels should be locked.
Also if you have an ohmmeter check resistance for trailer brake circuit. Should be about 1.5 ohms for single axle.
Art
Edit to correct stupid mistake on resistance A.

Thanks, can you elaborate on that a little such as where to do the test?

Connect trailer to TV but DO NOT connect electric. Pull breakaway pin an try to move trailer. Wheels should be locked.
Also if you have an ohmmeter check resistance for trailer brake circuit. Should be about 1.5 ohms for single axle.
Art
Edit to correct stupid mistake on resistance A.