No hot water flow, stopped up ?
Atwood G6A-8E, RV 1997 Fleetwood Bounder 36S The WH is in a sealed box next.to water bay, this is outside under the RV, no access to connections.at back of WH, Water goes into the water heater , it ...
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You have the two short grey lines just coming into the bay, the lower is the hot. Then a T on the hot and white lines from that. No hot water out and down the hot water drain,(? assume was tried) so definite block at that side of the T at least
You want to know if there is hot water with good flow at least out the short part of the grey line showing before it goes into the T, but it is too hard to get at.
My cunning plan is to undo the two white plastic clamps one by the T and the other higher up on that vertical, and pull on the T so more grey comes out. The story is there is some slack on that grey line behind the WH so you can pull the WH, so that same slack should allow you to pull some grey line farther out into the bay.
You might have hot water in the grey as far as the T based on the 94 to 80 drop in temps. IMO still worth a try, nothing to lose, by doing some plumbing at the T now you can get at it better with more grey line in the bay.
I like the newer poke in in connection parts they have now for Ts and elbows instead of the metal clamps like on there now, so putting in a new T and added water line if needed is fairly easy.
Then if no joy with the hot water out that grey line you know you have to bust in or pull the heater from outside.
On that-- you will need a stand to set the heater on as there is probably not enough slack to set it down, and be able to hold it while you try to undo connections at the back if it comes to that. Also the propane line slack will not likely be enough and it will have to stay behind but then finding it to get it through its hole to the front again could be tricky when you are operating blind when reinstalling. String on it to pull through? You have to reseal that hole where the propane line comes out so gas can't get in behind the WH into the RV. Can't remember how the electrical wiring goes if you have any. I had access at the back when I did it.
The tank will have an insulated cover that has to clear the access hole in the side of the RV. Older ones have cardboard and newer have styrofoam. The styrofoam ones are fatter and more awkward to wiggle out and put back in. I think a 1997 will be the cardboard one though.
You want to know if there is hot water with good flow at least out the short part of the grey line showing before it goes into the T, but it is too hard to get at.
My cunning plan is to undo the two white plastic clamps one by the T and the other higher up on that vertical, and pull on the T so more grey comes out. The story is there is some slack on that grey line behind the WH so you can pull the WH, so that same slack should allow you to pull some grey line farther out into the bay.
You might have hot water in the grey as far as the T based on the 94 to 80 drop in temps. IMO still worth a try, nothing to lose, by doing some plumbing at the T now you can get at it better with more grey line in the bay.
I like the newer poke in in connection parts they have now for Ts and elbows instead of the metal clamps like on there now, so putting in a new T and added water line if needed is fairly easy.
Then if no joy with the hot water out that grey line you know you have to bust in or pull the heater from outside.
On that-- you will need a stand to set the heater on as there is probably not enough slack to set it down, and be able to hold it while you try to undo connections at the back if it comes to that. Also the propane line slack will not likely be enough and it will have to stay behind but then finding it to get it through its hole to the front again could be tricky when you are operating blind when reinstalling. String on it to pull through? You have to reseal that hole where the propane line comes out so gas can't get in behind the WH into the RV. Can't remember how the electrical wiring goes if you have any. I had access at the back when I did it.
The tank will have an insulated cover that has to clear the access hole in the side of the RV. Older ones have cardboard and newer have styrofoam. The styrofoam ones are fatter and more awkward to wiggle out and put back in. I think a 1997 will be the cardboard one though.
