Atwood G6A-8E, RV 1997 Fleetwood Bounder 36SThe WH is in a sealed box next.to water bay, this is outside under the RV, no access to connections.at back of WH,Water goes into the water heater , it does not flow out the taps, I.removed the drain plug and only clear clean water comes out, no sediment, leave drain open turn on water pump.lots of Clean clear water comes out, When I turn Bypass valve to bypass mode, hot water taps have cold water good flow, I.have tried compressed air into the hot water drain in an effort to clear any clog and flush the water heater afterwards, it did not work, I have done this to both HW and CW drains and lines taps closed water heater drain open, I'm.ready to buy a borescope to examine inside the wh to look at the HW outlet, also going to remove and look at the bypass valve, some pix.to explain Last photo underneath RV looking up at the sealed box, metal covered with vehicle undercoat, the two flexible LP lines are visible, they goto WH & the rear furnaceI hope our resident experts can shed some light on fixing this, I'm hoping for.flex lines inside the box, so I can slide the water heater out, maybe it's a clogged check valve of some kindSorry about the photo size, I'm on my phone, not as easy to manipulate pages and photos

First guess is plugged check valve on cold water line in the back of the WH.Image 1Image 2Image 3

That's what I thought until I saw.that I have good water flow.into the heater , Tested by removing drain plug then turning on water pump,The biggest problem diagnosing and repairing is the lack of access to the back of the water heater

There is usually a check valve on the hot water outlet. Those fail and block hot water from leaving the water heater. The top fitting on the rear of the water heater.

How do I get access without tearing open a sealed weather proof box, that protects the water heater from the elements and road debris, I don't dare unscrew the front plate break the weather seal and attempt to pull it out , if it won't move because the water and LP lines are solid instead of flex, I don't like the way this is installed, no access with out destroying the integrity of the enclosure

Can you feel the line is hot to the by-pass and not past there? Or with an IR temp gun.How can you fill the tank before heating it unless you can get the air out of a hot water tap? Get hot air/water from the relief valve?

No hot water flow, stopped up ? | Good Sam Community

schlep1967
Nomad
Mar 16, 2022
You're going to have to figure out how to get to the hot water out line. Somewhere in that line between the crossover bypass line and the water heater there will be a check valve. Usually right on the water heater connection.
What happened on mine (twice) is the clip that holds the spring on the back of the piston comes off or breaks. The piston then travels downstream to the first joint or elbow and becomes a plug.
The best description of the symptoms is when the system is pressurized, all spigots closed. When you quickly turn on the hot you will get a quick shot of pressure and then it drops to a trickle.
BFL13
Explorer II
Mar 16, 2022
"94° where the hot water tube comes into the bay and connects to the vertical tube..That's the closest one far left in the picture of the bay, only 80° on the horizontal cross over"

Does that indicate the blockage is at the elbow there, where you can get at it?
dougrainer
Nomad
Mar 16, 2022
1. ALWAYS open the Pop Off valve to determine hot water production.
2. That model number IS correct? Does NOT have EXT on the model number?
3. Usually on this type OEM install, there is a metal flat plate either on the bottom of the Galvinized W/H box or on the back side where you see edge lines. They sometimes spray undercoating and that hides the panel edges and the screws holding that panel
4. IF they have no access panels, then they have enough extra slack on the Cold and Hot Water lines including the LP line. So, you can pull the water heater out and disconnect for repair or replacement. They HAVE to! They could not install without that excess slack.
5. IF they have a check valve on the Hot water exit fitting on the tank, you would get NO water or you would get diminished flow but would have hot water out that red drain line next to the water heater compartment. IF THE CHECK VALVE WAS THE PROBLEM. Doug
schlep1967
Nomad
Mar 16, 2022
Any chance there is an access panel on the inside of the camper? Either above or behind where the water heater sits. In a closet or under a cabinet?
Lwiddis
Explorer II
Mar 16, 2022
Photos came out great at least for me.
Fisherman
Explorer
Mar 16, 2022
Desert Captain wrote:
After flushing my water heater I had no flow at the sinks {kitchen and bathroom}. Someone from the Forum suggested I pull the aerators and check/flush the debris that migrated up from the water heater...Bingo! Rinsed them out and the water flow was restored to normal.

:C

Ditto, I couldn't believe the amount of wood chips and even a couple of pieces of wire insulation that came out of the taps, the idiots building the trailers have absolutely no supervision. Why not simply tape off the joints until they are actually connected. Ah but that would take some intelligence.
MrWizard
Moderator
Mar 16, 2022
schlep1967 wrote:
Any chance there is an access panel on the inside of the camper? Either above or behind where the water heater sits. In a closet or under a cabinet?

Unfortunately No
The rear RV Heater , located in the basement is mounted directly above the water heater, and the shower is above that
The water heater is below/under the basement floor, OUTSIDE underneath the RV
MrWizard
Moderator
Mar 16, 2022
Doug thank you, I will look again, to verify no access panel on the enclosure,
Then attempt to remove it by sliding it out,
Not knowing for sure that there are flex hoses, was a big concern,
The burner does come on, it does make hot water, opening the over temp valve gives a strong spray of hot water,
The number is correct no EXT no heat exchanger
I was hopping you or someone had serviced this exact setup and knew positively how it is installed,
MrWizard
Moderator
Mar 16, 2022
Schlep
Broken check valve plugging the line might be it,
There was no sediment in the tank.and never has been in the 4.5 years I have owned it
dougrainer
Nomad
Mar 17, 2022
MrWizard wrote:
Doug thank you, I will look again, to verify no access panel on the enclosure,
Then attempt to remove it by sliding it out,
Not knowing for sure that there are flex hoses, was a big concern,
The burner does come on, it does make hot water, opening the over temp valve gives a strong spray of hot water,
The number is correct no EXT no heat exchanger
I was hopping you or someone had serviced this exact setup and knew positively how it is installed,

It all depends on the OEM. I have had Winne and Fleetwood and Monaco that you had to pull the Water Heater to access the back where the water lines are. I have also cut my own access panel instead of pulling the W/H. I cut the back of the galv back wall IF I have at least a foot behind that panel. Using an Air chisel with a metal cutter blade, I can do this is less than 2 or 3 minutes. I then install a larger plate to cover the hole. This way, you always have access for the future. Doug

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