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billyray50's avatar
billyray50
Explorer
Oct 23, 2013

Norcold 2.7 cubic ft. 3 way fridge wont stay lit on propane

My Norcold fridge 3 way 300.3L will not stay lit on propane mode. Was blowing out on road but worked on propane when parked. Now it lights but shuts of immediately after letting go of the red safety button. Nice blue flame, no flickering or yellow and igniter is glowing orange/red. Stove top burners inside are nice and blue also. Works great on AC [electric]also. I blew out the burner orifice with canned air and vacuumed the area.I read some info online and cleaned the tip of the thermocouple. Tip shape is not deformed. Norcoldparts.com sells a wiring kit 628119 specifically for [pilot wont stay lit] for 20.00 dollars on their website. Also has thermocouple for about 43.00 bucks and looks like you cant install it from outside in fridge vent. It runs all the way up to back of the top of fridge.. If I were to try to replace the thermocouple and or wiring harness would I have pull the fridge out to do this? Anyone ever done this?

10 Replies

  • Thanks Kohldad for all the info. Appreciate it. Will try it in the morning. I will take some pics.
  • To remove the fridge:

    ->Disconnect battery wires at rear of fridge. Either disconnect the battery and unplug the camper, or ensure the positive lead can't short to ground. I just put the wire nut and a piece of tape back on the positive feed.
    ->Turn off propane
    ->Disconnect propane
    ->Disconnect power coord at rear of fridge
    ->Remove screw from top of door. Don't loose the plastic washer between the door and hinge bracket. Tilt top of door out and lift off bottom pivot.
    ->Remove 6 screws (#2 square bit)
    ->In the rear, there may be one or two screws holding the back of the fridge down. If so, they will be in the bottom metal flange.
    ->Slide unit out as required. Recommend push from the back, but not on any of exchanger parts.

    If not sufficient room to work on it, drop the dinette and set on the table.

    My unit didn't have a seal on the back of the flange. but if yours does, or a bead of caulking, just break it loose with a puddy knife.
  • Any other precautions regarding pulling out fridge hopefully only enough to work on the top of the fridge? Norcold manual says to Disconnect battery, shut propane tank valve off, bleed out propane on stove, disconnect propane near shut off valve, remove AC plug, disconnect dc wires from fridge, and remove the screws that fasten fridge to floor, and take off fridge door. Am I missing anything? Do I need to worry about the combustion seal?.. around the fridge mounting flanges...WHEW!!
  • Well I tried to light the fridge twice by holding the red safety button down 5 minutes each time waiting 10 minutes between each attempt. Still keeps shutting off immediately. Guess I am pulling the fridge out. I assume I have to remove fridge door first right? P.S. Thanks for tip Ctraveler2..Will try that too.
  • billyray50 wrote:
    Thanks jimmcpm and kohldad..appreciate info. Trying not to bring it in to the rv shop.


    I used to have a Norcold 300.3, one of the items that get over looked is the selector switch. I had a simular problem of what your experiencing, the internal contacts on the selector switch had corroded enough to prevent the micro current the thermocouple was generating from passing on to the safety valve, thus your flame would simplity go out.
  • Thanks jimmcpm and kohldad..appreciate info. Trying not to bring it in to the rv shop.
  • After turning off the propane, disconnect the propane lines then pull the fridge about 10" inside the camper. Should be able to disconnect the thermocouple on the safety valve at the top. Gently clean to remove tarnish buildup. You can use an eraser or 600 grit paper. Then, best you can try to clean the valve side, again gently. I have used a very small piece of 600 grit on the end of a finish nail head to gently rub back and forth then blow out. Clean good and reinstall.

    The wire kit replaces a couple of wires at the top of the fridge with extra low resistance wires. This was actually a recall a few years back. Thought I was having the problem at one time, but just made my own jumpers. You just need to make sure you have extra good contact as even 1 ohm could stop it from working. Wouldn't wste the money on a $20 kit.
  • I have the same fridge and the same issue. I do think it is a problem with the Thermo Coupler and like you I see that the fridge probably needs to be pulled to replace it correctly. I have found that if I just push the primer and hit the ignitor then release the primer once the piro-meter shows lit it goes out right away. However, if I keep the primer held for 3-5 minutes it will stay lit and work properly staying lit until I turn it off.

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