Have an older model refrigerator that has been great forever.About a week ago i noticed the freezer was defrosting and refrigerator was sweating. This was on electric. It was storming outside so i simply switched to propane and within a couple hours all was fine.Work had me covered up so i left it that way for a week. Yesterday i unplugged the cord and uncovered the board in rear compartment. I checked the resistance on the ac heater and got a reading of .718 with my meter set to ohms 2k setting. Not really sure what that means...I spoke to norcold who was helpful until they realized i was an owner not a service technician. He thought I might have a bad heater but said make sure i was getting power past the fuse. I checked both sides of fuse to ground and have 120 volts. I however do not have power on the j6 terminals which is where the heater plugs in. I did check this with the unit plugged in and the inside eyebrow switch in the on position. Is there possibly a delay before those terminals become hot?Is the heater bad?What else can i do to troubleshoot? Thanks.

Can you post complete Model and Serial Number? THAT model (I assume 1980's-early 90's) had a major recall that is still ongoing. Do you and did the Norcold phone tech even ask about the recall? It NEEDS to be done if it has not. They will send a complete new harness/Eyebrow and control board if it still needs the recall. The normal ohms is about 45 to 55. If you are not sure, just connect the 2 wire leads from the element to an extension cord(refer off and the back cold) see if the burner area heats up HOT in about 10 to 15 minutes. If NOT then the element is bad. Also, IF you have 120 current at the 2 spades on the control board that connect to the heater and it does NOT get hot, the heater is bad. They either work or they do not. No middle ground. The recall involves removing 120 current from control wiring and Norcold's new harness has all 12 volt DC control in all harness wiring. Doug

dougrainer wrote:Can you post complete Model and Serial Number? THAT model (I assume 1980's-early 90's) had a major recall that is still ongoing. Do you and did the Norcold phone tech even ask about the recall? It NEEDS to be done if it has not. They will send a complete new harness/Eyebrow and control board if it still needs the recall. The normal ohms is about 45 to 55. If you are not sure, just connect the 2 wire leads from the element to an extension cord(refer off and the back cold) see if the burner area heats up HOT in about 10 to 15 minutes. If NOT then the element is bad. Also, IF you have 120 current at the 2 spades on the control board that connect to the heater and it does NOT get hot, the heater is bad. They either work or they do not. No middle ground. The recall involves removing 120 current from control wiring and Norcold's new harness has all 12 volt DC control in all harness wiring. DougI have a photo of it but idk how to post. It is model 838eg2. The serial is e82860. Norcold said it was showing up as a different model and thought i needed the recall but i think i have the recall??? Green board and the two buttons on the eybrow.As I said on the OP...I checked the resistance on the ac heater and got a reading of .718 with my meter set to ohms 2k setting. Not really sure what that means...I am handy and am a general contractor. But I dont understand ohms and readings...typically use ohms for ringing out wires that are not identified not checking resistance...please explain.As also stated the ac heater connects to j6 terminals. These had no power when plugged in and switch set to electric on eyebrow. The 5 amp fuse is good and has power on both sides.

Green board and 2 decorative inserts plugs on eyebrow, recall is completed. Ohms readings as posted tells me element failed. When you check for 120vac use 1 test lead attached to j5 (bottom terminal), that is the neutral terminal. Heat element terminals are j5 and j6. Was the refer cold, (i.e.)thermostat satisfied, when you got no 120 volt on j6 (second from bottom) terminal? You will only get voltage on j6 if refer is calling for heat source to be active. To know if active choose lp mode and flame will come on. Then choose ac mode and continue test on j5 and j6 terminals. If no power backtrack to both sides fuse and even to receptacle if necessary. FYI, I've seen interior t-stat be intermitten and sometimes you can rapidly rotate knob stop to stop 20-30 times and listen for audible click, then t-stat may function. Follow dougrainer response.

Ok back at trailer today.The recall has been done, green board 2 buttons on eyebrow. The board is good took hair dryer to thermostat sensore j6 became energized.Now i am think process of elimination has the heater as the problem. Fridge works great on propane.Can some look at my meter and tell me which setting to put it on and what i should be reading??? Thanks.

Norcold 838eg2 help! | Good Sam Community

dougrainer
Nomad
Aug 03, 2013
Can you post complete Model and Serial Number? THAT model (I assume 1980's-early 90's) had a major recall that is still ongoing. Do you and did the Norcold phone tech even ask about the recall? It NEEDS to be done if it has not. They will send a complete new harness/Eyebrow and control board if it still needs the recall. The normal ohms is about 45 to 55. If you are not sure, just connect the 2 wire leads from the element to an extension cord(refer off and the back cold) see if the burner area heats up HOT in about 10 to 15 minutes. If NOT then the element is bad. Also, IF you have 120 current at the 2 spades on the control board that connect to the heater and it does NOT get hot, the heater is bad. They either work or they do not. No middle ground. The recall involves removing 120 current from control wiring and Norcold's new harness has all 12 volt DC control in all harness wiring. Doug
Travel2build
Explorer
Aug 04, 2013
dougrainer wrote:
Can you post complete Model and Serial Number? THAT model (I assume 1980's-early 90's) had a major recall that is still ongoing. Do you and did the Norcold phone tech even ask about the recall? It NEEDS to be done if it has not. They will send a complete new harness/Eyebrow and control board if it still needs the recall. The normal ohms is about 45 to 55. If you are not sure, just connect the 2 wire leads from the element to an extension cord(refer off and the back cold) see if the burner area heats up HOT in about 10 to 15 minutes. If NOT then the element is bad. Also, IF you have 120 current at the 2 spades on the control board that connect to the heater and it does NOT get hot, the heater is bad. They either work or they do not. No middle ground. The recall involves removing 120 current from control wiring and Norcold's new harness has all 12 volt DC control in all harness wiring. Doug

I have a photo of it but idk how to post. It is model 838eg2. The serial is e82860. Norcold said it was showing up as a different model and thought i needed the recall but i think i have the recall??? Green board and the two buttons on the eybrow.

As I said on the OP...I checked the resistance on the ac heater and got a reading of .718 with my meter set to ohms 2k setting. Not really sure what that means...

I am handy and am a general contractor. But I dont understand ohms and readings...typically use ohms for ringing out wires that are not identified not checking resistance...please explain.

As also stated the ac heater connects to j6 terminals. These had no power when plugged in and switch set to electric on eyebrow. The 5 amp fuse is good and has power on both sides.
Travel2build
Explorer
Aug 07, 2013
No one knows ohms???
wasatchmtnatvr
Explorer
Aug 07, 2013
Green board and 2 decorative inserts plugs on eyebrow, recall is completed. Ohms readings as posted tells me element failed. When you check for 120vac use 1 test lead attached to j5 (bottom terminal), that is the neutral terminal. Heat element terminals are j5 and j6. Was the refer cold, (i.e.)thermostat satisfied, when you got no 120 volt on j6 (second from bottom) terminal? You will only get voltage on j6 if refer is calling for heat source to be active. To know if active choose lp mode and flame will come on. Then choose ac mode and continue test on j5 and j6 terminals. If no power backtrack to both sides fuse and even to receptacle if necessary. FYI, I've seen interior t-stat be intermitten and sometimes you can rapidly rotate knob stop to stop 20-30 times and listen for audible click, then t-stat may function. Follow dougrainer response.
Travel2build
Explorer
Aug 11, 2013
Ok back at trailer today.

The recall has been done, green board 2 buttons on eyebrow. The board is good took hair dryer to thermostat sensore j6 became energized.

Now i am think process of elimination has the heater as the problem. Fridge works great on propane.

Can some look at my meter and tell me which setting to put it on and what i should be reading??? Thanks.
Travel2build
Explorer
Aug 11, 2013
Photo here??? I hope
Travel2build
Explorer
Sep 02, 2013
Ok. No one helped with meter. Thanks for that.

Anyways I have determined the heating element has to be bad. Fridge is perfect on propane. The element gets power it just doesn't get hot enough. So I have purchased a new element.

Now can anyone offer guidance on the best way to change it out. Thanks.
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Sep 02, 2013
Norcold used 2 different elements on that model, as I recall. The long "pencil" with a 90 bend should be obvious- remove a sheet metal cover, pull the element, which is sitting in a sleeve welded to the boiler.
The other "cigar" element is a PITA to change- it is on the back of the boiler. and you have to disassemble a ton of stuff to get to it.
Travel2build
Explorer
Sep 03, 2013
Chris Bryant wrote:
Norcold used 2 different elements on that model, as I recall. The long "pencil" with a 90 bend should be obvious- remove a sheet metal cover, pull the element, which is sitting in a sleeve welded to the boiler.
The other "cigar" element is a PITA to change- it is on the back of the boiler. and you have to disassemble a ton of stuff to get to it.

Great!

Anyone know a cheap mobile service guy around Ocala, FL?

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