Norcold flue cleaning

Thanks for the link.

In the event you ever need it, here's a reference and a very good price. I bought a burner from them — instant delivery. OEM product. http://www.ebay.com/itm/131183193369?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT BTW, I hope we do as well as your 18 years with our unit!

enahs wrote:
RV propane repair dealer I consulted mentioned that new burner can fit older models with a modification. Since it didn't apply to me, I didn't pursue it — but you might check it out. I think the burners are the same, but the new ones use a flare attachment.

That is what I was told also. If you have a flaring kit you can flare the old propane line that attaches to the new burner tube if not or if you screw up the flare you need to but a new propane line also. Right now the slider I made to adjust flame is working.

RV propane repair dealer I consulted mentioned that new burner can fit older models with a modification. Since it didn't apply to me, I didn't pursue it — but you might check it out. I think the burners are the same, but the new ones use a flare attachment.

Unfortunately Norcold no longer makes a replacement for my burner tube. The refer is 18 years old. The slots have rusted out and I had to modify it to adjust the fuel to air ratio. But it is still working.

FWIW, I consulted with a large RV propane appliance repair facility in this area. The tech noted that they never bother to clean the flue, as it is very difficult to get at. They just replace the burner and knock crud out of the chimney They also use a modest amount of compressed air up the chimney — then vac everything up. In my research, I've come to the conclusion that pulling the fridge partially out is the only way to get at it, at least for a Norcold. OTOH, the fridge has a cupboard compartment above it. Were the back panel of that cupboard to be made removable, it would give access to the top of the chimney. I dunnnoooo. I've also come to realize that burner replacement is very important, as is covering the burner when knowing crud from the chimney. Ebay has some very good prices on OEM burners.

I have a 682 Norcold and tried removing the baffle from the top with a coat hanger. There is a return flange over the flue. You can not look down and see light at the bottom with the return flange in the way. On my friends Dometic you can. I tap on the flue with a hammer to remove loose rust and vacuum it out every year. I thing I would have to remove the refer to get at the return flange and baffle. This is my experience and will be following this thread to see if there is a trick to remove the return flange and baffle without removing the refer.

I've done that regularly and just recently replaced the burner/orifice assembly. What a difference in the flame — old burner was really corroded to the point of gas vents being almost closed! Given the stuff that can be knocked out of the chimney, I've concluded that it would be good to clean the entire flue. I've got brushes to do that if I can get at it. BTW, if anyone can post a good photo of the flue attachment at the top of the chimney, it would really help.

Can't speak for the specifics of your model -- mine could be different. However, what I wanted to clean out was the pile of flaky residue which had accumulated at the bottom of the flue around the burner. Tapping on the flue released quite a cascade of junk, which was then easy to vacuum out.

That's now something I do at least every year.