Norcold...of course a fridge issue....

Ivylog wrote:
You do not need the 50amp cord/240V to run the refer. A regular extension cord will work once you turn the air conditioner off and electric water heater.

This was in ref to the A/C..Don was asking me to ensure that there are no 12v issues. All seems to be healthy in that respect. And the hot water pops on, no problem there.


Gary Haupt

You do not need the 50amp cord/240V to run the refer. A regular extension cord will work once you turn the air conditioner off and electric water heater.

And I am back to square one....I changed 110 outlets and lo and behold...the AC is working. Ran overnight.

So...for background, I am of the opinion that I hgave been having 'issues' for some time. Sort of an off again/on again thing, where the LP has and has not worked properly, then wored like a hot dam. Had the orfice replaced a month ago and all gas feed bits cleaned and checked. At same time, all electrical was checked and healthy.

I will try taping the ignitere this mornring just because I can do that.

Don...I can't even think of a way to check the A/C. I don't have a 220 feed at my home, except at the clothes dryer and I don't have nearly enough RV power line to get that far. I have now checked the A/C fan only and that runs just fine...Don E mailed me.


Gary Haupt

Hi Gary,

If the air conditioner is not working then you have a 12 volt feed problem not a fridge problem.

garyhaupt wrote:
I have come to the conclusion that the thing is dead. I was thinking I had AC...I don't. So..it's on to ordering a board tomorrow.


Gary Haupt

Should be a fuse on the board for the AC heaters... $0.15 but that does not explain no clicking.

I have a N641.3 and it doesn't have a green light. Must be an older model. My display is two yellow/orange seven segment displays. It is a 3 way frig running on 12VDC, 120VAC, and gas.

For anything to work you have to have 12V DC.

For your info, a DMM, digital multi-meter, costs about $3 to $5 at a cheap tool store. Someone on rv.net can tell you how to use it.

Sounds like you decide what you want to do. Keep in mind there are two circuit boards.

garyhaupt wrote:
I have come to the conclusion that the thing is dead. I was thinking I had AC...I don't. So..it's on to ordering a board tomorrow.


Gary Haupt

Yep....
Throw parts at it

I have come to the conclusion that the thing is dead. I was thinking I had AC...I don't. So..it's on to ordering a board tomorrow.


Gary Haupt

Hi Gary,

Have you used compressed air to blow out rust from the combustion chamber?

Remove the igniter by removing the small screw. Wrap the white insulator in elect tape and put back in without the screw. Does it click now?