Norcold Refrigerator Carbon Buildup on Flame Probe

You are running rich, not enough oxygen. Check the full length of the burner tube and chimney. Make sure it is clear of wasp nest and spider nest. Make sure your flame is not yellow, lastly adjust your flame fuel screw if everything else is clear.

Id checked the gas pressure too. If the pressure is low, the btu input will also be low but it will also draw in less primary air. A dust free, clean orifice is also important, but that doesn’t sound like it would be a problem in your case. Be sure the burner is super clean, so nothing restricts the primary air intake.
If it still soots after all that cleaning Id figure out a way to get more primary air… by hook or by crook, there are ways. Craig

"Make sure your flame is not yellow, lastly adjust your flame fuel screw if everything else is clear."

Thanks. Flame is blue. Where is this fuel screw that you mentioned located at? Burner tube/orifice is a single piece, and brand new. Ken

C Schomer wrote:
Id checked the gas pressure too. If the pressure is low, the btu input will also be low but it will also draw in less primary air. A dust free, clean orifice is also important, but that doesn’t sound like it would be a problem in your case. Be sure the burner is super clean, so nothing restricts the primary air intake.
If it still soots after all that cleaning Id figure out a way to get more primary air… by hook or by crook, there are ways. Craig

Good idea. I had suspicions about my pressure so I built a manometer and found that my reg not only wasn't regulating, it would drop to 10" with more than one appliance running - the the reg was only 4 y/o!
A new American made regulator has everything running perfectly.

KenS999 wrote:
"Make sure your flame is not yellow, lastly adjust your flame fuel screw if everything else is clear."

Thanks. Flame is blue. Where is this fuel screw that you mentioned located at? Burner tube/orifice is a single piece, and brand new. Ken

There is no fuel adjustment screw. I would remove the orifice and make sure it is not partially blocked. I would blow compressed air UP the burner tube to clean it out. If the refer is in a slide room you can remove the burner baffle from the upper vent door. Otherwise you will have to pull the refer to verify Burner baffle and no debris. An EASY check of a regulator without a Manometer is to light the range burners(all 3 or 4). Then run the water heater on LP and the Furnace. IF the range burner flames rapidly pulsate up and down or diminish, your regulator is BAD. Replace it. Doug

Thank you.

Question, can I blow compressed air up the exhaust flue to clean it? My flue does not go up to the roof but exhausts out a upper vent. It's only about two and a half feet long but not sure how to disassemble it. Would rather not if I don't have to. Thanks.

Generally on a propane appliance it is correct there is no "Fuel Adjustment Screw" Like there is on a gasoline carburetor.

What there is an air adjustment slider This is OFTEN (But not always) a window in the large tube past the oriface with a slider over it.. If you are running rich you slightly loosen the screw open the window a bit more (Then tighten the screw) if running lean you Same procedure but close it a bit.. Slide it open/closed till you get the best flame.. If you do not know how seek professional help.

I grew up with propane so have done several adjustments over the decades.

KenS999 wrote:
Question, can I blow compressed air up the exhaust flue to clean it? My flue does not go up to the roof but exhausts out a upper vent. It's only about two and a half feet long but not sure how to disassemble it. Would rather not if I don't have to. Thanks.

This is great. Remove the upper door and remove the baffle. It is on a long metal wire and just pulls up. Doug

https://escapees.com/rv-refrigerator-part-2-lp-gas-operation/

WC pressure was at 12 inches, so I turned it down to 11. I will monitor it now and see if I continue to get carbon build up on the flame meter probe.
Thanks.