Not a TriMetric, but for $20 might be worth trying out...

No problem with the shunt in line with the frame ground
Just so there are no other power carrying ground/negative wires connected at the battery

rjsurfer wrote:
How far from the shunt and case can I put the digital readout?

Ron w

How long are your wires?

The shunt is a very low impedance source (fractional milliohms). The display is likely a fairly high impedance input. Distance is pretty much immaterial in practical terms; hundreds or thousands of feet might be a little troublesome. Any practical length within an RV will be just fine. If the distance is long, it perhaps would be appropriate to use a twisted pair wire for the current sense to make sure that any stray voltage picked up via inductance doesn't affect the reading. I kind of doubt it would matter much in practice.

According to the spec, that meter can't measure both ways. It states 0 to 20A. If it can measure current in both directions it would state -20 to 20A.

brulaz wrote:
I do want the meter to measure net Ah, from both loads and charge sources.

Salvo wrote:
According to the spec, that meter can't measure both ways. It states 0 to 20A. If it can measure current in both directions it would state -20 to 20A.

brulaz wrote:
I do want the meter to measure net Ah, from both loads and charge sources.

This is the (+-) 100A one I ordered:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-120V-100A-Voltage-Current-Ah-Time-Meter-Battery-Charge-Discharge-AGM-SLA-LEAD-/180957166631

I ordered THIS ONEfrom the link I posted before
250 amps, measures both ways and counts amp hrs
My intended use is charge the batteries then zero the meter
So at night it counts down showing my discharged amp hrs
Then in the morning when the solar and converter are charging I can watch it come back up, to some place above zero in the plus range
Yes I know, zero is not fully charged you have to put back more than you take out, if I don't get a full recharge it will show my deficit
It is even programmable for amp hr capacity, and will show percent remaining
But you have too know your bank's true capacity for that to be used

MrWizard wrote:
No problem with the shunt in line with the frame ground
Just so there are no other power carrying ground/negative wires connected at the battery

Oops. Good point. Thanks.

The solar charger and inverter have their own return lines to the neg post. They don't go thru the frame like the rest of the 12V circuits.

So I'll mount one end of the shunt on the negative post and the three neg wires to the shunt's other end ... somehow.

Salvo wrote:
According to the spec, that meter can't measure both ways. It states 0 to 20A. If it can measure current in both directions it would state -20 to 20A.

brulaz wrote:
I do want the meter to measure net Ah, from both loads and charge sources.

Quote From Web Page

Measure Forward (Positive) and Reverse (Negative) current at the same time.
Combines many functions in one, displays voltage, charge and discharge current, consumed amp hours and remaining battery capacity.

LOL, I must of skipped page 2. Looks like a good meter.

I decided to just bite the bullet and get the Trimetric for my at home 800 watt solar system. It's very easy and accurate, can see SOC at any time.

i ordered the 200amp version
because of the large draw on the occasional MW use
once or twice a month the MW or coffee maker maybe both
get used from the inverter
usually warming a cup of coffee or nuking some bacon (late night snack)
only 3 slices
didn't want to risk damaging the shunt

tracking info says its been shipped via china post as of wed 23rd