Not a TriMetric, but for $20 might be worth trying out...

NOT a display light switch
if power is shut OFF
the meter shuts down and looses all data
and Resets-default back to OEM condition

12ampHr capacity with 6ampHrs charge

NO it does not track anything if power is shut off

its a leave it on OR start all over again situation with this meter
having Solar its a NO brainer, leave it on

i think the idea ? of external power is so you can power it from low voltage DC, while monitoring a high voltage DC system

The SCC gets its power from the main battery connections. The voltage sense wires are as Drew describes, very little current going through them. But since a person would have to run additional wires anyway, it seems like it makes the most sense to run a new dedicated wires used only for their intended purpose.

How about the external power option for this meter? How does that work? Does that imply you could shut off the external power source and the monitor would no longer light up? Would the tracking of Ah still occur if the external power were shut off?

It is possible to do All kinds of wiring contortions
That does not mean you are going to get correct readings
If you attach to the controller output, you will read controller voltage not battery voltage at the shunt
What ever the voltage drop between controller and battery shunt is , Will alter the Watts display and voltage value displayed
But if the wire is short and thick, the differences could be small enough to not mean much

ewarnerusa wrote:
Subscribed because I'm interested in a 100A version of this monitor.

Can my existing voltage sense wires for my solar charge controller be multi-purposed somehow for use with this meter?

I was thinking to take the meter's power (+-V terminals) off the heavy cables at my solar controller. They go direct to the batteries.

And V sense (Vin,GND) from the solar controller's V sense wires.
All these connections are close as the meter and controller will be right next to each other.

That only leaves a single twisted pair to the shunt from the Meter's isns & agnd

No, I don't think so, voltage sense is also the power supply wires, unless you use a separate external supply, which means a total of six wires instead of just four
You need two wires for the power/voltage sense and two wires for the amp reading
That means 4 wires aka two pairs, minimum
The power used to drive the meter, although minimal, would probably give your solar controller a false reading

you have to pull new wire anyway, so pull a multi wire com cable, instead of one pair, cheap surplus multi twisted pair com cable is an excellent choice for this project

And yes you could have more than one pair of sense wires on a shunt for several meters
But all the wires have to be attached at the shunt,
Not string out at different points on one cable
Please don't confuse the issue

ewarnerusa wrote:
Subscribed because I'm interested in a 100A version of this monitor.

Can my existing voltage sense wires for my solar charge controller be multi-purposed somehow for use with this meter?

Sure. There's no appreciable load on the voltage sense lines (by design), so wiring multiple meters in parallel to them is no problem. You have a very low impedance source feeding a very high impedance load. What you want to avoid is powering anything from the voltage sense lines; they're for measurement, not power. The main goal is to avoid voltage drop in the sense wires, which is accomplished by having no appreciable current flowing through them.

Current shunt connections have similar properties, too; you can put many ammeters on a single shunt without problems.

Subscribed because I'm interested in a 100A version of this monitor.

Can my existing voltage sense wires for my solar charge controller be multi-purposed somehow for use with this meter?

MrWizard wrote:
I used the first two wire diagram
12v B+
Neg

And one twisted pair for the shunt sense amp reading wires

The B+ neg aka power wires can be twisted or separate stands

So for your question two twisted pairs

Thank you Mrwizard, just the info I needed.

Thanks

Ron

I have run 76 amps through a 75 mv 50-amp shunt for an hour. The BORG does have an interior fan. But for the heck of it, it's apart again to install a second shunt to give me a proper sense of current balancing.

setting the current amount of amp hrs .. is slow
i haven't timed it, but i think the number count increases about 1amp hr every 2 seconds, so setting 400 or 500 amp hrs, as present charge/amphr count is a long time holding the button

before setting present state of charge, set the Amp Hr Capacity
that number runs up or down at a decent rate
and must be set first, because default is 12ampHr capacity and 6ampHr / 50 percent state of charge amphr count
meter will not let ampHrs count exceed Capacity
so capacity must be set first

with the 200amp version
readings below 10amps, are all over the place
trying to calibrate for a correct 4amp reading, really screwed up the readings when the generator was powering the converter

i had to unplug the meter and reset everything

maybe i should have got the 100amp version and took my chances with the shunt
the MW doesn't run at full power on the the inverter any way, so it might have been OKay..oh well