Nova Kool refrigerator

Not a Novakool
but this fridge from NorCold does use a DC powered danFoss compressor, looks very nice for the price $1297
might not be as well insulated ??

7.0 cu. ft. Refrigerator 2 Door Left Swing
Freezer - 1.7 cu. ft.
Refrigerator - 5.3 cu. ft.
Now with danfoss compressor
Top-of-the-line, two door model
Contemporary flush mount styling
Self-ventilated design for easier integration
Exceptionally quiet, hermetically-sealed compressor
Drip tray drain hose
12-volt fan aids airflow across condenser and compressor for improved cooling
Reversible doors
Black exterior trim

7 CuFt DC NorCold

mockturtle wrote:
Interesting.

X2! Thanks for that info.

Interesting.

We have a 2.2 CF Tundra fridge that uses the Danfoss compressor.


Here's the power usage I measured:



Tundra TJ22 Linky

Bruce

mockturtle wrote:
Thanks, all of you, for your input. Dave, it's good to hear that yours is working well. Since mine will be smaller, it should have quite a bit less energy draw. I'm getting 200W of solar but, here in the Pac NW, there isn't always a lot of sun (an understatement). Not that I'll be spending winters here much longer. I can run the generator if necessary but prefer not to.

The upside of cloudy days is you harvest less solar but because of lower outside temps, your all electric fridge will cycle less.

My 7.5 uses the equivalent of a 60W light bulb when cycling which is around 40% @70F. Even a week in the rain around Powell River, BC Early July, with some solar, cooler temperatures and power from the alternator kept us genny free.

Dave

Thanks, all of you, for your input. Dave, it's good to hear that yours is working well. Since mine will be smaller, it should have quite a bit less energy draw. I'm getting 200W of solar but, here in the Pac NW, there isn't always a lot of sun (an understatement). Not that I'll be spending winters here much longer. I can run the generator if necessary but prefer not to.

It's going on 3 years we have been camping with our NovaKool 7.5cuft, AC/DC, fridge/freezer. It draws 4.7A when cycling although manufacturer says 4.4A after reaching set temperature.

As has already been said, daily draw from batteries depends on:
1) Set temp
2) Door opening times and duration
3) Amount of warm food or beverage placed in unit
4) Surrounding or outside temperature
5) Any extra insulation mods

Pros:

Can set up on very unlevel ground without damage to unit.
Cools and freezes quickly in warm temps
Uses less energy (more efficient)than a similar sized absorbtion unit
Almost zero fire hazard
Similar compressor technology used in 99.9% of worlds commercial and domestic refrigeration units

Cons:

Units use more electricity than similar sizes absorbtion fridges so if dry camping exclusively, RV must be set up with larger battery bank, solar, wind etc, genny and/or power from the alternator.

We have camped 193 nights with the NovaKool and have had shore power 4 times and genny power +- 3 hours.
330 W solar, 4 6V AGM's(400AH) and the trucks alternator have done the rest.

Couldn't be happier.

Dave

This looks like it uses the same technology as my Engel chest freezer.

Very pleased.

NovaKool uses the danfoss/Secop compressors. The compressor speed is variable with these and compressor amperage consumption will depend on what the compressor speed is set to, anywhere from ~2.2 amps at 2000 rpm to ~5 amps at 3500 rpm for the bd35f compressor.

I have an~ 2 cubic foot Vitrifrigo with the danfoss/secop. It came with a 277 ohm resistor in the thermostat circuit to increase compressor speed to 2500.

I removed it to run at 2000 rpm.

I have added extra insulation, and my condenser has no chance to recycle preheated air which is where the biggest inefficiencies lie in my opinion

Mine runs about a 20% duty cycle in 70f. When the compressor first kicks on it draws~ 3 amps and this tapers down to about 2.2 amps by the time the compressor kicks off 4 to 6 minutes later.

IIRC, NovaKool uses a passive condenser. No fans forcing air over the compressor or condenser. Making sure the condenser can transfer heat to a larger space via adequate ventilation will make or break the duty cycle. If the condenser if forced to stew in its own heated airspace, well it is like a car radiator with a piece of cardboard in front of most of it.

So Installation is just as important as the manufacturer of the unit.

Also the number of times the door is opened, how long it is left open, and how much warm things are placed within will have huge effects on battery consumption, so there is no real answer to your question.

Best thing you can do is add extra insulation where you can, make sure the condenser can breathe easily, and educate users of the fridge so that the door is not opened more often than needed or for longer than needed. The latter is very hard to impress on a huge segment of the population.

If my RV fridge goes out, I'll probably get one of these.