So I have the standard WFCO 8900 series charge/converter (I believe it's the 45 amp model). However, I have a "smart" charger that I prefer to use. It just seems to do a better job charging and maintaining. Can I bypass the WFCO when I'm using the Honda 2K and just use the smart charger directly to the batteries so as to not suck power from the generator when running the A/C? The generator noticeably kicks up and sometimes goes into overload mode when the WFCO charger tries to start charging the batteries.

I don't see any problem with that. You could just unplug the wfco from the 120v outlet and abanon it in place. WFCO is junk anyway, add to that a long wire run and you have batteries that never get a full charge.Edit: You probably still need the WFCO for the converter function, so if it's not on a seperate breaker, you could wire up a 120v switch and just turn off the WFCO when you want to use the smart charger. Running both chargers at the same time could interfere with the smart charger.

Send the Whiffie to me Chula Vista CA. It'll get a good home powering a rural Mexican streetlight once it gets some upgrades and a fan that actually cools. I donate my time, and materials to make it happen. I have a 200 watt heatsink and pair of 10,500 lumen chips just waiting for a sugar daddy. The heatsink requires 12 volt fans as ball bearing 120vac (Pabst?) units are rather pricey. The crosswalk streetlamp has been in operation 2+ years and the truckers hate it. They can actually see toddlers waddling across the highway even though the brightness may dazzle them. Comision Federal de Electricidad erects lamps and pays for the power. Whew! Waterproof photoelectric switches are not inexpensive either. The twist-lock-terminal kind are garbage in salt tropical air. I use encapsulated. The voltage control of the Whiffie I was using for my bench acted so flaky I would not entrust it to streetlight duty. Good thing too. It smoked.

You can use one, or the other, or both at the same time.If you don't want to use the WFCO, flick the breaker that feeds the converter portion.I'm curious what size 'smart' portable charger you use in place of the 45a WFCO.

Yes you can bypass or disconnect the WFCO. Once the air is started I would reconnect. By the time the air cycles the battery should be charged enough that WFCO draw would be minimal.How many amps is the portable? It will also create quite a load depending on rating.

beemerphile1 wrote:You can use one, or the other, or both at the same time.If you don't want to use the WFCO, flick the breaker that feeds the converter portion.I'm curious what size 'smart' portable charger you use in place of the 45a WFCO.It's a Sears Diehard "microprocessor" charger/maintainer. I don't know. It works better at maintenance than the WFCO. I see 13.6-14.0V way more often on the Sears charger. Picked it up on sale a couple years ago. It's a 2/8/20/30 amp charger w/an 80 amp jump start feature, which has come in darn handy. Can't tell you how effective the equalize/desulfate mode is, but it does send 15.5V into the batts. and seems to keep them going. Regarding flipping a breaker to disable converter, I'm not too sure which one that is.

Onboard Charger vs. Smart Charger | Good Sam Community

Diesel_Camper
Explorer
Aug 29, 2016
I don't see any problem with that. You could just unplug the wfco from the 120v outlet and abanon it in place. WFCO is junk anyway, add to that a long wire run and you have batteries that never get a full charge.

Edit: You probably still need the WFCO for the converter function, so if it's not on a seperate breaker, you could wire up a 120v switch and just turn off the WFCO when you want to use the smart charger. Running both chargers at the same time could interfere with the smart charger.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Aug 29, 2016
Send the Whiffie to me Chula Vista CA. It'll get a good home powering a rural Mexican streetlight once it gets some upgrades and a fan that actually cools. I donate my time, and materials to make it happen. I have a 200 watt heatsink and pair of 10,500 lumen chips just waiting for a sugar daddy. The heatsink requires 12 volt fans as ball bearing 120vac (Pabst?) units are rather pricey. The crosswalk streetlamp has been in operation 2+ years and the truckers hate it. They can actually see toddlers waddling across the highway even though the brightness may dazzle them. Comision Federal de Electricidad erects lamps and pays for the power. Whew! Waterproof photoelectric switches are not inexpensive either. The twist-lock-terminal kind are garbage in salt tropical air. I use encapsulated. The voltage control of the Whiffie I was using for my bench acted so flaky I would not entrust it to streetlight duty. Good thing too. It smoked.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Aug 29, 2016
You can use one, or the other, or both at the same time.

If you don't want to use the WFCO, flick the breaker that feeds the converter portion.

I'm curious what size 'smart' portable charger you use in place of the 45a WFCO.
time2roll
Nomad
Aug 29, 2016
Yes you can bypass or disconnect the WFCO. Once the air is started I would reconnect. By the time the air cycles the battery should be charged enough that WFCO draw would be minimal.

How many amps is the portable? It will also create quite a load depending on rating.
joeshmoe
Explorer
Aug 29, 2016
beemerphile1 wrote:
You can use one, or the other, or both at the same time.

If you don't want to use the WFCO, flick the breaker that feeds the converter portion.

I'm curious what size 'smart' portable charger you use in place of the 45a WFCO.

It's a Sears Diehard "microprocessor" charger/maintainer. I don't know. It works better at maintenance than the WFCO. I see 13.6-14.0V way more often on the Sears charger. Picked it up on sale a couple years ago. It's a 2/8/20/30 amp charger w/an 80 amp jump start feature, which has come in darn handy. Can't tell you how effective the equalize/desulfate mode is, but it does send 15.5V into the batts. and seems to keep them going.

Regarding flipping a breaker to disable converter, I'm not too sure which one that is.
MrWizard
Moderator
Aug 29, 2016
with any converter or battery charger
do charging for an hour then start the A/C
don't wait until you need the a/c
'load management' is what is needed
and yes you can turn off the wfco
but unless you are dealing with a 20amp charger versus the wfco
you still have a load problem doing charger and a/c at the same time with 2000w generator
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Aug 29, 2016
The WFCO shuts down 100% when it senses another charging voltage source. A parallel charger does not damage the WFCO it merely shuts it down. Same for switched power supplies like the Megawatt and Meanwell.

BFL uses his power supplies in parallel thus they have been proven to operate paralleled.
joeshmoe
Explorer
Aug 30, 2016
okay. thanks for the replies
red31
Explorer
Aug 30, 2016
joeshmoe wrote:

Regarding flipping a breaker to disable converter, I'm not too sure which one that is.

Take to time to label your breakers.
time2roll
Nomad
Aug 30, 2016
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
The WFCO shuts down 100% when it senses another charging voltage source. A parallel charger does not damage the WFCO it merely shuts it down. Same for switched power supplies like the Megawatt and Meanwell.
Yes it shuts down once battery voltage rises to the WFCO set point, typically 13.6 volts. However if you use that charger at low amperage it may take an extended period to reach that voltage. Or you can put the portable up to the 30 amp level for faster charging however that will also load down the generator.

I think the idea is to get the air started and then switch the battery charging on.