My Dometic refrig model #2862 faulted out on gas today. Tried to reset it. Will not run on gas. OK on electric. I wanted to check the gap on the electrode. Removed it to clean and check gap the electrode wire is lose. The spark end. It move inside it insulated housing. Is that normal? I thought it would be tight and you would have to bend the electrode wire to get your gap setting. I can hear a click when it tries to start but no flame. I have gas, the stove and water heater works and battery power is good plugged into shore power. Time for new electrode? Thanks Gary

Old-Biscuit wrote:YES.......new electrodeThanks OB. New electrode is on order. Will keep the Refrig on electric until I have the part I need.

I had that electrode come loose inside the ceramic insulator. A spot of crazy glue kept it in place until I could get a new electrode.

Well I installed the new electrode, did not help. Still going to fault on gas. It keeps cool on electric. I check both fuse and they are OK. I can not see a spark on the electrode? Should I see one. I can hear a click on the gas valve. But not seeing vapor going to the burner or smelling gas? It has a #58 Jet. Next step? Jet? Control board? Or gas valve? Guess I a luck I am home and have shore power for now to run the refrig. Any help would be great.

Is the gap correct should be spark on the electrode. Pull the plug on the circuit board and clean the contact points on the board with an eraser.

Problem With Dometic Refrig Model 2862 UPDATE | Good Sam Community

19 Replies

CT_WANDERER
Explorer
Jul 09, 2015
After the Igniter, I replaced the re-igniter board. All is great. fired off after turning the power back on. I got an original replacement board was $67. Thanks everyone for all your help Gary
CT_WANDERER
Explorer
Jul 06, 2015
Chris Bryant wrote:
There are two different versions of this model- do you have the one with integrated ignition, that the electrode hooks directly to the single board?
Those are actually pretty reliable- I don't think I gave ever had to replace one, but the Dino equivalent would be this one.

I put the service manual for that model here.

Chris Thanks for the copy of the service manual.
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Jul 06, 2015
There are two different versions of this model- do you have the one with integrated ignition, that the electrode hooks directly to the single board?
Those are actually pretty reliable- I don't think I gave ever had to replace one, but the Dino equivalent would be this one.

I put the service manual for that model here.
dougrainer
Nomad
Jul 06, 2015
CT_WANDERER wrote:
dougrainer wrote:
CT_WANDERER wrote:
D.E.Bishop wrote:
I don't know if you have a manual for your fridge or not so here is a link for a copy;

Manual in PDF

You mentioned a low clicking sound, can you see if the electrode is sparking and if it is sparking as it should. If you have to adjust to have the spark in the correct position, DON"T, Don't bend the electrode, bend the mount but never try to bend an electrode.

The diagrams and schematic will give you an idea where to test for voltages with you DMM or DVM.

Let us know how it goes.

As for now, I am not getting any spark. I have between 1/8 to 3/16 spark gap. It work on electric and if I use a gas grill lighter it will have a flame. But once it cycle off it will not restart. I don't think I am getting any spark voltage from the board. But I am going to check the ground from the burner back to the control board ground.

The "BOARD" does NOT control the Gas Valve or the Spark Ignitor, other that telling the PART you need, to do that job. IF the gas valve opens and can light with a Match-------You need a "reignitor", not a control board. Follow the gas valve wires or the Spark electrode wire and they will go to the reignitor. Doug

Doug I may have the wrong terminology on the board. I was going to replace the board that is in the back of the refrig. The one the spark and gas valve is wired to. Is that the one I should be replacing? Gary

Yes. Doug
mchero
Explorer
Jul 06, 2015
Double check that spark wire, It could possibly be arching to ground B4 it get's to the electrode. Go for a Dinosaur!!

http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Ignitor_boards.htm
CT_WANDERER
Explorer
Jul 06, 2015
dougrainer wrote:
CT_WANDERER wrote:
D.E.Bishop wrote:
I don't know if you have a manual for your fridge or not so here is a link for a copy;

Manual in PDF

You mentioned a low clicking sound, can you see if the electrode is sparking and if it is sparking as it should. If you have to adjust to have the spark in the correct position, DON"T, Don't bend the electrode, bend the mount but never try to bend an electrode.

The diagrams and schematic will give you an idea where to test for voltages with you DMM or DVM.

Let us know how it goes.

As for now, I am not getting any spark. I have between 1/8 to 3/16 spark gap. It work on electric and if I use a gas grill lighter it will have a flame. But once it cycle off it will not restart. I don't think I am getting any spark voltage from the board. But I am going to check the ground from the burner back to the control board ground.

The "BOARD" does NOT control the Gas Valve or the Spark Ignitor, other that telling the PART you need, to do that job. IF the gas valve opens and can light with a Match-------You need a "reignitor", not a control board. Follow the gas valve wires or the Spark electrode wire and they will go to the reignitor. Doug

Doug I may have the wrong terminology on the board. I was going to replace the board that is in the back of the refrig. The one the spark and gas valve is wired to. Is that the one I should be replacing? Gary
dougrainer
Nomad
Jul 05, 2015
CT_WANDERER wrote:
D.E.Bishop wrote:
I don't know if you have a manual for your fridge or not so here is a link for a copy;

Manual in PDF

You mentioned a low clicking sound, can you see if the electrode is sparking and if it is sparking as it should. If you have to adjust to have the spark in the correct position, DON"T, Don't bend the electrode, bend the mount but never try to bend an electrode.

The diagrams and schematic will give you an idea where to test for voltages with you DMM or DVM.

Let us know how it goes.

As for now, I am not getting any spark. I have between 1/8 to 3/16 spark gap. It work on electric and if I use a gas grill lighter it will have a flame. But once it cycle off it will not restart. I don't think I am getting any spark voltage from the board. But I am going to check the ground from the burner back to the control board ground.

The "BOARD" does NOT control the Gas Valve or the Spark Ignitor, other that telling the PART you need, to do that job. IF the gas valve opens and can light with a Match-------You need a "reignitor", not a control board. Follow the gas valve wires or the Spark electrode wire and they will go to the reignitor. Doug
CT_WANDERER
Explorer
Jul 05, 2015
D.E.Bishop wrote:
I don't know if you have a manual for your fridge or not so here is a link for a copy;

Manual in PDF

You mentioned a low clicking sound, can you see if the electrode is sparking and if it is sparking as it should. If you have to adjust to have the spark in the correct position, DON"T, Don't bend the electrode, bend the mount but never try to bend an electrode.

The diagrams and schematic will give you an idea where to test for voltages with you DMM or DVM.

Let us know how it goes.

Also I could not get the link to open
CT_WANDERER
Explorer
Jul 05, 2015
D.E.Bishop wrote:
I don't know if you have a manual for your fridge or not so here is a link for a copy;

Manual in PDF

You mentioned a low clicking sound, can you see if the electrode is sparking and if it is sparking as it should. If you have to adjust to have the spark in the correct position, DON"T, Don't bend the electrode, bend the mount but never try to bend an electrode.

The diagrams and schematic will give you an idea where to test for voltages with you DMM or DVM.

Let us know how it goes.

As for now, I am not getting any spark. I have between 1/8 to 3/16 spark gap. It work on electric and if I use a gas grill lighter it will have a flame. But once it cycle off it will not restart. I don't think I am getting any spark voltage from the board. But I am going to check the ground from the burner back to the control board ground.
D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Jul 04, 2015
I don't know if you have a manual for your fridge or not so here is a link for a copy;

Manual in PDF

You mentioned a low clicking sound, can you see if the electrode is sparking and if it is sparking as it should. If you have to adjust to have the spark in the correct position, DON"T, Don't bend the electrode, bend the mount but never try to bend an electrode.

The diagrams and schematic will give you an idea where to test for voltages with you DMM or DVM.

Let us know how it goes.