BFL13 wrote:
I would risk it by attaching a plug to the cord and plug the unit in. You already did that I guess, since you confirmed it has no DC output.
With multi-meter set to 120v, see if it has 120v on the board to each fuse and then on the other end of the fuse, for each fuse. If the ceramic one is open, I would jumper it ( with something that has a wood handle!!) and check for DC output.
It is possible water got into where you hard wired the unit into the AC breaker panel and shorted the 120v input so one of those two fuses blew.
See my other post about continuity to the white fuse.
At this point in time I don't want to jumper the white fuse with power.
What I would prefer to do is replace the white fuse by soldering in a another one with the correct specifications.
e.g. I would need to know if it's a fast acting or slow blow and it's amperage .
