Progressive Dynamics converter location

To answer your "Is there any reason" question: NO. You can do that..

But there is a reason you might not WANT to.

Normally your wiring is something like this (much simplified)

Battery-(Fuse/breaker)---Switch(Sisconnect)--rest of system including converter

This way you can DISCONNECT and run the house off the converter.

If you wire the converter directly to the battery you can not do this.

(Though with a Progressive Dynamics wizard controlled converter there is never a reason to disconnect)

Guess I could have clarified, the fuse and shunt are separate. The converter is wired directly to the batteries (with fuse). The shunt is directly on the battery terminal (and otherwise wired according to their instructions), but is in line with all other loads.

I haven't had/found/made room yet for a proper battery compartment with bus bars for this stuff, so it makes for a little messy under-step compartment, not what I'd like, but it's secure, and works well.

I am really liking the meter, just went out there to check on everything. Only complaint is it doesn't show negative amps like when charging, or I'd have wired the shunt inline with the charger as well.

Looks good. I like that meter. I would go down to 100 amps ANL as long as the shunt is 100 amps.
Shunt will act like a fuse. Don't have to ask how I know...

Thanks again everyone for the replies. If I didn't mentioned it already, bought the 9270 with pendant from Best Converter, great place. Will be getting my inverter and more from them as my next project.

I placed the PD9270 in the lower portion of my power center. I almost had another place for a surface mount, but no room. It totaled about a 5-6' run (one way) of #4 welding cable.

Fitment was not too much an issue, I was actually able to cut out the inside of the cover of my WFCO. There are little fins that were in the way, and their removal allowed clearance, width and height were good to go. Cut a hole in the back of the WFCO to pull my cables, and wired a plug to the converter 15A breaker.

I had JUST enough room to pull my new cables through the existing hole in the floor to underneath the RV, including wire loom around each. However it is pretty tight against the existing hole in the floorboards.

I don't see it wearing through the loom and insulation and causing a short, but just as a feel good measure I placed a 150 amp ANL fuse on the positive line. I don't think this will cause any issue with voltage drop or charging? I measured something minuscule like <.03 volts across both poles of the fuse. Unless anyone thinks this is a no-no. Seems to work fine.

Edit: only reason I ask about the fuse affecting charging is I put my DC clamp ammeter on the positive lead for the converter and only got 8-10 amps in boost mode, but it cycled through the modes and voltages just fine. It was probably just all the batteries would take at the time.


Along the way I've discovered the "2/3" status indicator light is something like 12 volts and the "1/3" is around 11.5 volts, pretty much no good. So, I also added one of these, wired it and works well, just have yet to cut a hole and mount it. It's good to finally see actual voltage (amps is nice to have too)! http://www.amazon.com/6-5-100V-Display-Digital-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS

Thanks everyone for your replies. I figured that on the voltage drop anyways... and will go with the #4 and be happy with how much better it's going to work.

Regarding fitment in the WFCO: I measured the lower cavity in my 8955 to be 4" x 11.75" x 7.25".

Per the Progressive Dynamics website the 9260 and 9270 are 3.6" x 8" x 9".

Looks like I might be about 3/4" short on the depth and may need to cut the back of the WFCO out. I think this will be OK as there is free space behind it, with nothing that should interfere physically, and should also help with airflow. I don't have many options for surface mounting outside of the converter, at least anywhere near the battery compartment.

I have found using google search people that have put deck mount converters in the stock location. I beleive there is a conversion posted on the best converter site as well. I would like to mount mine there but I am hesitant about air flow.

I found it impossible to get the tinned anchor marine #2 into the WFCO terminals rated #2.

In either case, the voltage drop is basically negligible. At 60A, 6 feet (total wire length) of 2 gauge will have a voltage drop of about 0.07V, and 4 gauge will have a voltage drop of 0.11V. At lower currents, the voltage drop will be correspondingly lower. This works out to something like three-quarters of one percent of your power consumed by wiring loss in the worst case with 4 gauge wire.

Anyway upon further internet surfing I've found sources saying they are capable of #2 max, and #4 max. I'm sure I'll be fine with 4, just thinking 2 if at all possible can't hurt.

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A buck twenty two cents per foot. 60' minimum purchase (can be ordered in the thousands of feet continuous length).

This stuff is so tough it can be ran (supported) under a coach. DLO #4 normally sells for six bucks plus, per foot.


http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/14awgdlo2kvblack-1-1-1-1-1.aspx