Propane install

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Got me there Bobbo. My propane days occurred long before yellow tape. I still would use rectumseal given a choice.

Thanks for bringing me into the 21st century :)

I recently bought the extended run kit for a Honda generator. The kit actually included a small roll of the white Teflon tape to use. I tossed their white tape into my plumbing supplies and used the yellow tape I had on hand from previous projects. (I also cut the male threads off the hose and installed a quick connect to it and the fuel tank. Now, the hose is completely detachable. I used the same connectors that my Tohatsu outboard motor fuel tank uses, so I can use either the 3 gallon Tohatsu or the 6 gallon Honda fuel tank with either application.)

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Got me there Bobbo. My propane days occurred long before yellow tape. I still would use rectumseal given a choice.

Thanks for bringing me into the 21st century :)

'


Be careful with that rectumseal, it can cause a build up of gas.

Got me there Bobbo. My propane days occurred long before yellow tape. I still would use rectumseal given a choice.

Thanks for bringing me into the 21st century :)

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
...

Wrapping LPG pipe threads with teflon tape is a recipe for disaster. Check with your local LPG tank truck distributor and they'll recommend something like Rector Seal paste. I've helped others clean out tiny scraps of white teflon tape blocking a stove orifice and hot water heater orifice. ...

Are you referring to the yellow gas line tape? Gas Line Tape

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
...

Wrapping LPG pipe threads with teflon tape is a recipe for disaster. Check with your local LPG tank truck distributor and they'll recommend something like Rector Seal paste. I've helped others clean out tiny scraps of white teflon tape blocking a stove orifice and hot water heater orifice. ...

For this very reason, Teflon Tape has been completely banned from any and all Naval Nuclear Power Plant applications ever since the program started in the 1950s!

Paying ANYONE to do ANYTHING these days is not cheap. When Quicksilver was built, I had a retired propane mechanic friend pitch in and offer his advice about how to plumb the system. "Gas appliances down the (center of the road) high side of the rig" He wanted schedule 80 black iron, I opted for schedule 80 hot dipped galvanized with individual filters at each tap. Flex line with a service loop coil. At that time the plumber's dope had lead in it. A small can was incredibly heavy.

Between plumbing, electrical, and the ship's carpenter, it took some careful planning to orchestrate who did what, when. I used an 83 gallon motor fuel tank for vapor LPG. One issue. Electric (yacht) LPG solenoid valves consume something like 8 watts when open. That idea was rejected. The tank was revolved about 40 degrees to bring the valves closer to the side panel door. The fast fill port was OK, the liquid valve was removed, a 90 degree extension was calculated and oriented on both the vapor and the "10%" valves to place their pickup points correctly. The 10% valve vents at 73 gallons, a bit of overkill.

Avoid flexing of the main manifold gas pipe. I used tailpipe hangers constructed out of rubber and laminated plies that look very much like big rig mud flaps. One hanger every 18", and only 2" of the strap is used. Where the tank is placed, means having a "T" enter the main line. I got fancy and had an Aeroquip stainless braided LPG rated hose made up to connect tank to steel pipe. Because the goodies are hidden from sight, I used separate regulators. The first is a 10 pound unit which is red, the second a standard gray unit. Then an Ashcroft liquid filled pressure gauge with a fifteen inches of water column span.

Wrapping LPG pipe threads with teflon tape is a recipe for disaster. Check with your local LPG tank truck distributor and they'll recommend something like Rector Seal paste. I've helped others clean out tiny scraps of white teflon tape blocking a stove orifice and hot water heater orifice.

Soapy water leak test all connections a couple days apart after a major installation. We tested mine, by shutting off individual appliance valves, then applying 10 pounds pressure. This can be done with air. My friend found 3 very tiny leaks, at the individual shut off valves. They were exchanged for a different brand.

Use good tools. I still have my Rigid pipe wrenches. All nut and bolt fastenings use nylock nylon insert lock nuts. Quicksilver has a teak over 3/16" steel floor. I used a product called NUTSERT to rivet threads into the steel floor then BLUE Loc-Tite on appliance bolts to eliminate the possibility of accidental vibration loosening. Thin nylon pads are between floor and appliance feet. You won't need all that for a wood floor.

Drill your hose for appliances. Stick nipples attached to T's through the floor then measure halfway down the nipple threads on both sides of the pipe. Get a propane shop to cut and thread the lengths of pipe for you. My friend pointed out a slightly too long a length of pipe is far more preferable than a slightly too short length of pipe. One more tightening turn of the "T" nipple will shorten the distance. Jam the pipe nipples up through the holes in the floor and then hand thread pipe caps onto the end of the nipples to keep the pipe length from falling to the ground. Measure the correct height for the pipe then cut 2/4's with a V-notch for the pipe to rest. Then hangers can be attached to the pipe and frame or floor.

Hope some of these tips can be applied to your job

hey guys, I called a company out and they quoted me at $1600. does that sound about right?

Gas piping for 3 appliances. To have individual shut offs and
4’ gas appliance connectors.

thats the exact wording from them in my email. I cannot afford it, but cannot taker the time myself to do it so I have no choice. the batteries and power will have to wait another month, but at least I will have heat. is this estimate what you guys would expect? the tank is mounted, and I need 3 lines run through the frame and up through the floor.

hmm interesting, thanks. yeah I don't plan to actually connect anything or fill the tank yet, just lay the stuff in place for now. ill do it to code as I do everything around my home, just a pain in the butt learning it all. I had two guys helping me who both for different reasons had to stop for awhile, and can't start helping again until a couple months from now. sorry if I come ass as rude or anything, I don't mean to I'm just incredibly stressed out doing this alone(also split my right thumbnail down to the bone so it was casted for two weeks and still hurts).

what I meant about not using copper lines, is a certain kind that was in there that I do know I can use something else for. they have those flexible copper ones ill use for those, and will use the black iron for the external as it was when I received it. I just can't see how I can fit underneath it with the floor on, there isn't much room.

the wiring looks like it comes all the way to the back for the tail lights/markers already, and I am decent with 120v. the weird thing was, something wasn't working right and no matter what I did, the only battery being used was the truck battery. the lights in the cab all drained the battery, while only the AC outlets and AC worked with shore power plugged in. I went to charge the coach battery, and it would not receive a charge. I have since cut/disconnected most of it, including both batteries under the hood, to do the work on it. with the wires running to the back for the tail lights, there are also other wires running that I cannot for the life of me figure out. I made a post about it recently, and I would love to do it before putting everything on but do not know what needs to be grounded, what comes from battery, if I have the coach battery just taken out of the hood, is it safe to start the truck? so many things I don't know that my two helping friends did.

Your location/rules problems are what they are, as you say. We feel for you, but can't help with them.

No one here is going to advise you to do this job incorrectly just to accommodate your situation. You are getting good advice on the right way to do the job, which is pretty much the way RV manufacturers have been doing it since before you were born. That includes black iron pipe, mounted EXTERNALLY, from the tank location to the points of use, with penetrations through the floor at each point. Some manufacturers use copper from the T through the floor. My trailer has black iron nipples through the floor, with adapters to soft copper on the inside.

Whether you like copper is not the issue. It is the right material for the job, so if you want to do it right you use it.

The good news in this, since you are "pressed for time", is that you can do the propane plumbing after the floor is installed. So worry instead about doing the running/taillight wiring, which SHOULD be protected within the structure--and which is relatively easy to learn and do.

I'd read section 5, up to 5.19
http://www.nfpa.org/assets/files/aboutthecodes/1192/1192_f2013_fdr.pdf
Then look at annex B for example.

use something like
https://mbsturgis.com/rv-propane-hoses-sturgi-stays-quick-disconnects-regulators/rv-pigtails-lp-hoses/3-8-thermo-plastic-hose-assembly.html
from the regulator to the black pipe.