Is it normal to have to bleed air from the system when you get your rig out of storage? I do shut the propane off when I drop the trailer off for storage. And I always considered it normal to have to bleed the air out to get ready for a trip. But lately I've been wondering if this is normal, or if I have a leak. So I figured I would see what your experiences are. Do you (you personally not you hypothetically) have to bleed air out of your system if you shut the propane off for an extended period of time? Oh as far as normal. I realize that by design there should be no leaks during storage unless you open the system somehow. But with how cheaply these components are made I would consider it normal if the majority of you also have to bleed the air out every time.

How long a time is "extended"? All winter or between trips because there is no parking at home? Maybe not the same as with bottles, but if the big tank in our Class C is turned off for a few days, and then opened, it takes a couple of tries to get the furnace to light, but the stove lights up ok.

I need to bleed most of the time...twenty seconds or less at the stove and then the fridge lights very quickly.

Normal.... been doing that for MANY years.... I used to start with the high output burner first, when I had 1. .

BFL13 wrote:How long a time is "extended"? All winter or between trips because there is no parking at home? Maybe not the same as with bottles, but if the big tank in our Class C is turned off for a few days, and then opened, it takes a couple of tries to get the furnace to light, but the stove lights up ok.That's a good question about the length of time in storage. I don't think I've noticed an issue with a week between uses. But the majority of my storage is a month or more between trips.

Propane leaks during storage. | Good Sam Community

opnspaces
Navigator II
Mar 14, 2020
^ Thanks for the heads up. I already did smell propane one day and had to replace the regulator on the Jayco. That was quite a few years ago now that I think about it.
time2roll
Nomad
Mar 14, 2020
Keep your nose tuned to the possibility of a leak near the regulator.
If the regulator is original in the two RVs in your signature it would be OK to just replace them.
deltabravo
Nomad
Mar 14, 2020
ford truck guy wrote:
Normal.... been doing that for MANY years.... I used to start with the high output burner first, when I had 1. .

Ditto. All 6 RVs I've owned since 2003 have been like this. (or has it been 7 - I lost count)
dougrainer
Nomad
Mar 14, 2020
RJsfishin wrote:
I never have the problem, I just leave the propane on all the time.
When there is no leak, there is no reason to turn it off.

Not a good idea if you are not using the RV. Doug
red31
Explorer
Mar 14, 2020
dougrainer wrote:
red31 wrote:
Time + thermal cycling w/leaks causes vacuum to suck in air.
the longer closed and not used yields more air.

Yes, but HOW MUCH VACUUM needs to be generated to PULL the outside air IN thru Rubber gaskets/seals? I doubt atmospheric Vacuum can pull air in thru a tight almost completely sealed system. Doug

VERY LITTLE, I have no doubt (goes both ways). Open and close over short periods and there is little issue, close for weeks/months and the issue is there.

If 15.5 psia can leak to 15 psia then cooling and the pressure drops to ?? 14.5 psia or less?

The stick lighter flicker is my clue (long periods of closed) that it ain't propane causing the flicker.
RJsfishin
Explorer
Mar 13, 2020
I never have the problem, I just leave the propane on all the time.
When there is no leak, there is no reason to turn it off.
C_Schomer
Explorer
Mar 13, 2020
Micro leaks and thermo cycling makes the most sense to me but I have another explanation... sp!t happens! Craig
dougrainer
Nomad
Mar 13, 2020
red31 wrote:
Time + thermal cycling w/leaks causes vacuum to suck in air.
the longer closed and not used yields more air.

Yes, but HOW MUCH VACUUM needs to be generated to PULL the outside air IN thru Rubber gaskets/seals? I doubt atmospheric Vacuum can pull air in thru a tight almost completely sealed system. Doug
red31
Explorer
Mar 13, 2020
Time + thermal cycling w/leaks causes vacuum to suck in air.
the longer closed and not used yields more air.
dougrainer
Nomad
Mar 13, 2020
Chris Bryant wrote:
I’ll give yet another explanation. Electronic valves do not seal 100%, and they are all basically one way valves, offering no resistance backwards. LP gas is very temperature sensitive- the lp that remains in the lines at atmospheric pressure after they have leaked down will expand and contract with ambient temperature, it gets cold, and the pressure in the line is below atmospheric,,drawing in air to the system.

Let me ask you this. The LP in the line is at pressure. It slowly leaks OUT due to pressure pushing it out. Does it not seem logical, that at some point after leaking down the in line pressure and the atmospheric pressure will be equal? The existing LP vapor left cannot exit OUT because there is no excess pressure to overcome the outside air. So, you reach a stand off. This is how I look at it. Doug

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