PSW Inverter - No Load Current
Our in-bed camper will only hold two batteries. Wanting to power the microwave, TV, satellite and laptops. Thinking a 2000w PSW inverter would be the right size. Noticed most 2000w inverters have n...
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Efficiency hardly matters when running a microwave for 5 minutes. Perhaps you can work out "efficiency" (out vs in) from this set of numbers, don't know.
I found a test I did with my PMX-2000 and an 1100w microwave that label says wants 1510w input. 450AH AGM bank
No-load 00.6 amps. Plugged in MW on standby 00.9 amps , ran microwave with cup of water in it for two minutes.
162 amps draw, (8 bars on its power "meter"), my voltage fell from pre-run 13.0 to 11.9 at first ( I have a wiring zoo ).
After two minute run, voltage bounced back to 12.9v, and Tri said 00.9 amps
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EDIT--those voltages were from the Trimetric, so battery voltage. You would need the DC voltage at the inverter to get input watts. Be a bit less than that 11.9. Also don't know what the MW was really pulling at the 120v. Wasn't using the Kill-A-Watt. Drat.
If it was that 1510w out and 162 x 11.5? = 1863w in, then 1510/1863 = 81% But that is not the real number of course.
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Note this inverter has lugs that stick out the back with holes for nut and bolt connection to ring lugs. Size limit on ring lugs between bolt and inverter case. "Normal" size lugs ok but those great big ones with extra fat wire (which is not needed for 150 amps) won't fit if way too big. You can turn the lug sideways and get it to fit if the long end past the hole is too long. if whole ring lug not too crazy big.
I use twin #4 wire three feet. Two for pos and two for neg. I put one ring lug on top and one under the bolt hole lug that sticks out so not stacked.
I found a test I did with my PMX-2000 and an 1100w microwave that label says wants 1510w input. 450AH AGM bank
No-load 00.6 amps. Plugged in MW on standby 00.9 amps , ran microwave with cup of water in it for two minutes.
162 amps draw, (8 bars on its power "meter"), my voltage fell from pre-run 13.0 to 11.9 at first ( I have a wiring zoo ).
After two minute run, voltage bounced back to 12.9v, and Tri said 00.9 amps
----------
EDIT--those voltages were from the Trimetric, so battery voltage. You would need the DC voltage at the inverter to get input watts. Be a bit less than that 11.9. Also don't know what the MW was really pulling at the 120v. Wasn't using the Kill-A-Watt. Drat.
If it was that 1510w out and 162 x 11.5? = 1863w in, then 1510/1863 = 81% But that is not the real number of course.
----------
Note this inverter has lugs that stick out the back with holes for nut and bolt connection to ring lugs. Size limit on ring lugs between bolt and inverter case. "Normal" size lugs ok but those great big ones with extra fat wire (which is not needed for 150 amps) won't fit if way too big. You can turn the lug sideways and get it to fit if the long end past the hole is too long. if whole ring lug not too crazy big.
I use twin #4 wire three feet. Two for pos and two for neg. I put one ring lug on top and one under the bolt hole lug that sticks out so not stacked.
