I'm looking at the following panels, which are too big for indoor storage, but I think I have a viable plan for side mounting themhttp://2solar.ca/product/12v-140-watt-pv-solar-panel/And I'm looking for a compatible controller. The following is an el-cheapo on Ebay: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/181432216196?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649I have a question regarding the Voltage set points? I'm wondering what is meant by "boost, direct, and float charge voltages". Specifically, what is the "direct" charge voltage, and when would it be applied?My goal is to have a controller that does not drop down into the 13.x volt range prematurely.Any other controller recommendations would be welcome also.Thanks!

I like my Solar30 much better than that kind of controller above, even though it has that neat fuzzy control and is wearing its jumper.The Solar30 has an ammeter and display too which is handy. You can see what amps the solar is doing at any time compared with the Trimetric which shows how much the battery is taking.The Solar30 has an adjustable voltage and once you get the batteries to that it stays at that voltage till amps drop at dusk. If you want to float at 13.6 you can set that whenever you want. It reads as though it has two adjustments but in fact Vabs is also the Float.I did like my LandStar which went to 14.6 stayed there for two hours and then dropped to 13.8 nothing adjustable, but it has no ammeter and that two hours isn't always what you want. Solar30 is better having used both.

My 10A similarly looking version claims 10 mins of boost and direct.So the panel matches battery voltage till the battery gets to boost and PWM keeps it there 10 min and then 10 more direct then float.My new superior Energizer g24 maintained sg for a couple months this way before it rolled away to be abused by another!Now I just have the truck batt to 'play' with, 50% irradiance on 4A panel.6pts plotted.

Hi, BFL,Yeah, it was your earlier mention regarding abs and float being the same that made the specs on this particular controller jump out at me. And it appears this el-cheapo has only a 2 digit readout? I just want to make sure I get the right one.Is this the one you're referring to?http://www.chinasolarregulator.com/user-manual/SOLAR30.pdfIt says settable float voltage, on page 7, but mentions no range? I think you said up to 14.4v?

The 2 digit readout is the work mode for the load, 17 different modes that turn on and off the load for differing number of hrs after sundown. It ain't no volt/amp meter

Hi, Red,So, using 3 stage charger terminology, essentially, it would do boost/cc until the batts caught up, then do another 10 minutes of constant current, and then 10 minutes only of abs, before dropping into float?------------ Oh, ok, has to do with load only, got it, thanks!

PWM controller question | Good Sam Community

time2roll
Nomad
Nov 19, 2014
Two panels, no fuses in combiner box.
Fuse near battery always required.
jrnymn7
Explorer
Nov 19, 2014
Well, I pulled the trigger on the 140w panels, and the wiring, connectors, solar30, etc.

But I do have a question concerning fuses. Do I need fuses along the cables from panels to controller, or controller to batteries, or both?

Thanks!
mena661
Explorer
Nov 15, 2014
jrnymn7 wrote:
Windy Nation appears to have cable at a reasonable price:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/251623958935?var=550526434497&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

And these would eliminate the need for clamps:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/321545888082?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I would just need to use a pair of 'T' connectors for paralleling. And I could rig up a couple of pigtail adapters with some 6ga, M-F connectors, and welding connectors (like above):

http:
//www.ebay.ca/itm/New-MC4-Adapter-Male-Female-Y-Branch-T-Branch-Connectors-For-Solar-Panels-/161401386771?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item259445b713
That works.
jrnymn7
Explorer
Nov 15, 2014
Windy Nation appears to have cable at a reasonable price:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/251623958935?var=550526434497&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

And these would eliminate the need for clamps:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/321545888082?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I would just need to use a pair of 'T' connectors for paralleling. And I could rig up a couple of pigtail adapters with some 6ga, M-F connectors, and welding connectors (like above):

http:
//www.ebay.ca/itm/New-MC4-Adapter-Male-Female-Y-Branch-T-Branch-Connectors-For-Solar-Panels-/161401386771?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item259445b713
BFL13
Explorer II
Nov 15, 2014
jrnymn7 wrote:
BFL,

What kind of connectors are the parrot beaks clamped to, in that pic?

Yes, you need something fat to clamp onto. The bare end of a #8 wire isn't really enough to grab.

They are set-screw terminals joined end to end with a nut and bolt. The #8 wires in the panel junction boxes go in them for the panel paralleling and it gives a big enough lump to clamp to.

Another way easier to buy, is to use those standard car battery post lead clamps with the squeeze nut and bolt. Put ring terminals on the pigtails from the panel junction boxes and use the squeeze bolt to hold the rings inside the clamp end with a fat nut to make up some space and squeeze them all tight. Now the parrot beak can clamp onto the big lead part.

(you need the spacer nut in the jaws or you can't squeeze tight enough without breaking off a jaw)

You can get lead battery posts that screw onto a bolt. You can clamp onto those if you get the pigtail rings onto the bolt somehow. Beware the thread sizes inside those posts as it is hard to get them to screw on tight when metric gets involved or whatever is the matter.

Anything with a lumpy end that will take a nut and bolt will do I suppose
jrnymn7
Explorer
Nov 15, 2014
BFL,

What kind of connectors are the parrot beaks clamped to, in that pic?
Snowman9000
Explorer
Nov 15, 2014
BFL,
OK, that sheds a lot of light on it for me. Thanks.
BFL13
Explorer II
Nov 14, 2014
Snowman9000 wrote:
BFL,

Here is a different opinion on the same question:
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27610950/gotomsg/27612545.cfm#27612545

From my viewpoint, it's hard to know.

I don't see what is different. Isn't that the same as what I said? Panel voltage is battery voltage adjusted for voltage drop.

The amps you get at STC should be the panel Isc at the time which is whatever Isc is along the IV curve at that battery voltage-- *as seen at the panel (a tad higher than actual battery voltage due to voltage drop on the wires)*

EDIT--ok now I see the problem. He is ignoring the Isc drop off when battery voltage gets above 14v on the IV curve and the knee at 15v.

Scroll down to the IV curves on this 130w panel

http://www.affordable-solar.com/site/doc/Doc_ND-130UJF%20spec_20080519171721.pdf
Snowman9000
Explorer
Nov 14, 2014
BFL,

Here is a different opinion on the same question:
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27610950/gotomsg/27612545.cfm#27612545

From my viewpoint, it's hard to know.
BFL13
Explorer II
Nov 14, 2014
Those Princess Auto cu-al cables are always coming on sale for the various sizes. If no hurry just wait :) We have a store nearby so it is easy to go and get stuff. Just don't buy any of their solar! Highway robbery! Same thing at Can Tire for their solar. People buy that too, the poor saps :( $4 or $5/watt !!!

I have cut up a #2 cu-al set and found the strands are zillions of fine silky threads each of which is cu over al. Amazing how they would have to make one! Anyway, very flexible like welding wire but you have to get serious adding a lug terminal on all those silky strands so it stays on. Also advertised as staying flexible in the cold, which does not apply here of course, but would in Ontar-iar-io.

I got these a couple years ago for about ISTR $30 on sale

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/en/Battery/25-ft-1-Gauge-Booster-Cables/8212573.p

shown here on two 100s in parallel

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