Question For Elec Tech

I couldn't identify any of the 6 breakers as being a double wire breaker, but being as its not unusual, I doubled up on one of them anyway, both wires seem very tight. I had to double up on the ground bar too. All looks good to me.

EVERY LAST RV ever built that uses household breakers and buss service WILL HAVE THEIR COMPRESSION FITTINGS LOOSEN. After seeing this a thousand times, I spent a fortune on Quicksilver, for marine type breakers, and busses, that use terminals, screws, nuts and shake-proof lock washers. The 4024 Trace which has been robbed uses 5/16" studs and washers and nuts.

Except in California, houses do not vibrate. Check out a EURO-TERMINAL some time. The screw to block thread fit has a slight interference. You can screw a standard home-RV set screw in and out with your fingers and there is not a danged thing you can do about it except maybe use blue Loc Tite.

COPPER/ALUMINUM/STEEL thermal expansion and contraction rates do not get along. Couple that to a non-English speaking vehicle assembly technician who has a sandwich in one hand, a coke in the other, and is clenching a screwdriver with his teeth, and got you a problem.

Does it start?
Yes
Does it move?
Yes
Do all the light work?
Yes
Heater, A/C, water pump, yadda yadda?
Yes
Then why isn't it in the cleared docking bay ready for transport?
It is surrounded with Fire Trucks

Laugh on. I saw this in person.

Mine came with doubled up breakers from the factory... solid conductors, same gauge in both holes. I recently was fiddling around inside the breaker box and re-torqued a bunch of connections, some of the ground and neutral studs had backed out.

School of hard knocks taught me to use EXACTLY the same AWG on both sides of the breaker. Even one size difference will encourage tension to lessen eventually on the lesser wire. Same with solid versus stranded. Do not mix.

RJsfishin wrote:
I know what works, but just wonder'n whats correct to a code.
I want to add another (120v) lite duty circuit to an existing 20a breaker.
Its been said to not have 2 wires connected to 1 breaker. If so, is it ok to use a 12" pigtail in the breaker, then wire nut both circuits to the pigtail,....which is in turn using the breaker box as a junction box. I'm not under code, but just tryin to keep it looking correct.

Well.. Basically.. YES. that is how it is supposed to be done.

one suggestion though is to tape over that wire nut,, I've had wire nuts (not taped) fail.

This is what UL says about multiple terminations.
19. Multiple Conductor Connectors — If the terminals of a circuit breaker are acceptable for use with multiple connections in one hole, and the breaker is intended for this type of use, the breaker is marked to indicate the proper multiple connections. This is uncommon for breakers—ordinarily, the terminals are suitable for only one wire per hole.

Ones that have the V shaped termination point normally are for one wire. Those with the flat plate are for two.

You can always use a junction box for splitting off any wiring like that. Just be sure it's left open and accessible and not buried behind drywall or something else.

All 12ga wire.
I thought I got the "no 2 wire" info from here not long ago.
Good, I'll check that breaker out.
Thanks

Don't forget to use wire sized for your breaker on this extra circuit. You mention this is a light duty circuit - do not be tempted to use anything less than 12 gauge on a 20amp breaker, regardless of the load on the end, be it a 60 watt light bulb or a 1600 watt hair dryer.

The breaker protects the wire, not the load.

Soren is correct that many circuit breakers are designed to allow two wires. Placing two wires under the screw plate style connection balances the stress on the screw. Splicing inside the circuit breaker panel could cause more issues.