Question on wire size for 30a
I need to install a 30a RV outlet on the side of our house for our trailer. I need to go about 60 feet from the panel. Would 10/2 Romex be sufficient, or should I go bigger?
Forum Discussion
Lots of factors involved
#1: Do not ---- off your homeowner's insurance by violating LOCAL electrical code.
#2: Got a fat wallet? NEC code for MOTOR START circuits is a tad different.
#3: Like NinerBikes pointed out. If you refuse to use common sense, use #10 AWG, connect a voltmeter at the load, have your accessories going and then high-head start your AC. SURPRISE! The bigger the start voltage drop the bigger the TWANG that entire circuit is going to get when the motor cap start disengages. This is not E=MC2 theory it is from experience and an oscilloscope.
#4 NEC does NOT COVER every contingency and it does not cover every load variance. The NEC covers their own ---, and that of manufacturers, and underwriters. The NEC does not cover such inconsequential facts such as length of service life AT THE LOAD. That's YOUR WALLET not theirs.
I used a house as an umbilical connector with sixty feet of provided extension cord BRAND NEW cord, my 30-amp socket. After suffering 20-volt drops for 5-days when the roof air cycled (100F/90F) the 10 gauge duplex CAUGHT FIRE a foot or so distant from the rig connector. I assembled stuff myself. The CU to trailer socket connections used U-shaped fork connections which were SOLDERED. The fire did not hurt the socket but it did discolor the terminations.
An "X" ampere load may not be "X" at all. Add your rig hotel load to a 3-times amperage draw factor of a roof air high head starting amperage. Now does THAT meet otherwise misinterpreted NEC electrical code. Of course not.
Connectors and connections degrade over time. After say 5 years will those terminations have the SAME ampacity as brand-new terminations? Of course not.
Penny-wise, dollar idiocy. I don't have enough money to chase nickels with dollars.
#1: Do not ---- off your homeowner's insurance by violating LOCAL electrical code.
#2: Got a fat wallet? NEC code for MOTOR START circuits is a tad different.
#3: Like NinerBikes pointed out. If you refuse to use common sense, use #10 AWG, connect a voltmeter at the load, have your accessories going and then high-head start your AC. SURPRISE! The bigger the start voltage drop the bigger the TWANG that entire circuit is going to get when the motor cap start disengages. This is not E=MC2 theory it is from experience and an oscilloscope.
#4 NEC does NOT COVER every contingency and it does not cover every load variance. The NEC covers their own ---, and that of manufacturers, and underwriters. The NEC does not cover such inconsequential facts such as length of service life AT THE LOAD. That's YOUR WALLET not theirs.
I used a house as an umbilical connector with sixty feet of provided extension cord BRAND NEW cord, my 30-amp socket. After suffering 20-volt drops for 5-days when the roof air cycled (100F/90F) the 10 gauge duplex CAUGHT FIRE a foot or so distant from the rig connector. I assembled stuff myself. The CU to trailer socket connections used U-shaped fork connections which were SOLDERED. The fire did not hurt the socket but it did discolor the terminations.
An "X" ampere load may not be "X" at all. Add your rig hotel load to a 3-times amperage draw factor of a roof air high head starting amperage. Now does THAT meet otherwise misinterpreted NEC electrical code. Of course not.
Connectors and connections degrade over time. After say 5 years will those terminations have the SAME ampacity as brand-new terminations? Of course not.
Penny-wise, dollar idiocy. I don't have enough money to chase nickels with dollars.
