Question Re: Water Pump Activation

Simple
Have the pump rebuilt. Easy to order/install. I'd go for BOTH the bellows AND the pressure/check valve.

RM

Another thing that effects the pump cycle time is the volume of air trapped in the top of the water heater tank IF it is on line. The more volume of air in the top of the tank the longer the cycle time for a given size of "leak".

I have the same problem. I checked for leaks and found none. I have a syphon valve for winterizing, the type that has the cap to remove to install the plastic clear hose. The valve itself is mounted on the intake side of the pump. I left the cap on and switched the valve. The pump never kicked on again. I turned the valve back on and waited. Sure enough about 15 minutes later, the pump cycled. The valve kept the water from back feeding into the water tank. I was confident that the pump itself was allowing the pressure loss. I just turn the pump switch on when I need water.

Its very common, and 99% of the time, its an internal pump valve. One thing for sure, if you don't find any external drip, then it is for sure in the pump.
I have had it happen a hunerd times over 50 yrs, and every time it was internal, and every time it quit just about as fast as it started.

I agree with the slow leak.. if it's not dripping then it's the pump's check valves doing the leaking. Have same problem by the way.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Water pump cycling every 10-15 minutes means there IS a leak

That leak could be:
At a fitting/connection (place paper towels down around suspected areas)
Out the city water connection check valve (look for drip from city water hook up)
Back thru pumps check valve (hard to diagnosis except if water tank fills while hooked up to city water source)
Dripping PRV....look in water heater outside compartment
Toilet valve leaking thru....watch for drips into bowl
Outside shower dripping
Low point drains dripping

One thing for sure......that frequent of pump cycle......you have a leak!

X2

Mine was the "Outside shower dripping"

ticki2 wrote:
If there are no apparent water leaks anywhere it is most likely the suction line between water tank and pump causing an air leak . Sometimes just tightening the fittings or hose clamps will fix the problem . Sometimes it needs a new hose . it can also be the pump internal check valve . Good luck

I just fixed a suction leak on my TT. The lined used to suck antifreeze into the system was allowing air to get into the system. Even with the two way valve closed in was getting air into the system. Good luck.

Water pump cycling every 10-15 minutes means there IS a leak

That leak could be:
At a fitting/connection (place paper towels down around suspected areas)
Out the city water connection check valve (look for drip from city water hook up)
Back thru pumps check valve (hard to diagnosis except if water tank fills while hooked up to city water source)
Dripping PRV....look in water heater outside compartment
Toilet valve leaking thru....watch for drips into bowl
Outside shower dripping
Low point drains dripping

One thing for sure......that frequent of pump cycle......you have a leak!

Itchey Feet wrote:
Most likly just leaking back thru the pump, happens a lot -- just turn off the pump switch till needing water --- will save on battery as you are not needing water 24-7. KMHO

I agree with the check valve in the pump leaking through allowing the pressure to drop thereby starting the pump. Mine leaked, I replaced it. A few weeks later it leaked through again. Now I just turn off the pump unless I need it. I do have to close the suction (Inlet) valve to the pump though or the fresh water tank will fill and overflow if hooked up to city water. JMO

If there are no apparent water leaks anywhere it is most likely the suction line between water tank and pump causing an air leak . Sometimes just tightening the fittings or hose clamps will fix the problem . Sometimes it needs a new hose . it can also be the pump internal check valve . Good luck