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profdant139's avatar
profdant139
Explorer II
Jan 25, 2019

Questions: self drilling/ tapping screws for chassis work

I'm getting ready to install my underbelly cover -- there will be aluminum C channel beams (to support the foam panels and the coroplast under-skin) attached to the underside of the trailer's frame members. Some of the steel frame is pretty beefy -- either I beams or box beams.

I know some folks have used beam clamps to attach the C channel to the chassis, but I am very risk averse and want it all to be screwed down in a bomb-proof way.

I thought about quarter inch bolts -- yes, that would work, but that would entail a lot of time drilling up into the frame while laying on my back with bits of metal falling in my face. Sounds like fun! Plus it involves drilling big holes into the frame, potentially weakening the beams.

So I am leaning toward self drilling self tapping screws. I am planning to drill a pilot hole -- I will experiment to see what size pilot will give me the best results.

I am leaning toward hex head screws -- I have a tendency to strip Phillips screws when working upside down, and hex heads give me a nice solid grip, so that I can snap the head off a few of the screws by over-tightening them. (I wish I were kidding -- I have a terrible problem of knowing when to stop tightening things. My wife calls me "The Great Twisto" in honor of the things I have destroyed.)

But here come the questions -- first, is there a particular brand of screws that you prefer?

Do you use an impact driver to install the screws, or a drill motor with a socket?

In thin metal (let's say a sixteenth), do you need to drill a pilot hole?

Thanks in advance for your advice. I am guessing that there are quite a few of us who are not experts in using this type of screw, so your comments will be appreciated!

70 Replies

  • rhagfo's avatar
    rhagfo
    Explorer III
    I used hex head self drilling/tapping screws worked even in frame rail.
  • hex head self tapping screws with cordless drill. No need to drill pilot holes. I've installed literally hundreds in steel and aluminum and never have snapped one. I don't even bother to set the torque slip on the drill. you know exactly once it penetrates and then I back off the speed.

    I prefer the hex heads rather than a torx or robertson head. lots more material in the head and a 6 point hex head driver works well.
  • hard stainless steel HEX head ?

    or just drill holes and use pop rivets, this is more work
  • Cordless drilldriver is the way to go. No pilot holes, and the impact type drivers are quick and seldom result in broken heads with self tapping hex head screws.

    an example
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-20-Volt-Max-Variable-Speed-Cordless-Impact-Driver-2-Batteries-Included/3441518
  • Every time I've drilled into thick stock(frame rails) , if I didn't drill a pilot hole, I'd have a broken head no matter the clutch setting. As a matter of fact, most times the pilot hole had to be just a tad smaller than the "Tek"/self tapping screw. I would most certainly use the hex head!
  • No pilot hold her head screws and set the clutch on the drill so you don't snap the head off.
  • profdant139 wrote:
    So I am leaning toward self drilling self tapping screws. I am planning to drill a pilot hole -- I will experiment to see what size pilot will give me the best results.

    I am leaning toward hex head screws -- I have a tendency to strip Phillips screws when working upside down, and hex heads give me a nice solid grip, so that I can snap the head off a few of the screws by over-tightening them.


    I'd drill a pilot hole and use Canadian invented #2 Robertson square head self tapping screws ... with a properly sized pilot hole a cordless drill will easily secure the screws tightly without fear of twisting the head off. Robertsons may be harder to source in the US but are FAR superior to those awful American invented Philips head screws. :p
  • No need for a pilot hole. I’ve replaced floors in a couple of stock trailers driving self drilling hex head screws through the wooden boards into the steel I-beam cross members. You can put them in as fast as you can get them in the driver.

    Used a drill because drivers weren’t around, but that’s what I’d use now.

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