Ok here's a little question for you guys, but first here's a quick resume of my story.I'm building my camper van on a Ford E250 extended platform with high top.Haven't bought any electrical stuff yet.When I'm done building this thing, I will be boondocking (nothing crazy) and using shore power, I will have a 30amp system with 2 batteries, a generator, inverter, converter, charger, 12v and 110v fuse panels, microwave, 3 way fridge, no AC (I think for now), no solar panels (I think for now maybe eventually?) gas heater and water heater, 17" laptop, water pump, fans, 12v lights here and there.So here's the thing.I have a tight budget but I was thinking of buying this Atwood 55amp APS-5530 charger/converter/12v and 110v fuse panel, it's all in one and it seems very nice and clean, I can get it on amazon for like 72$ shipped.http://www.trailerrvparts.com/Atwood-55-amp-convertercharger_p_183.htmlYou guys already told me that a 30amp system is more than enough on another thread, but is it ok to have a 55amp charger/converter on a 30amp system?Also the transfer switch is going to be 30amp is that going to be a problem vs the 55amp charger/converter?My guess is that it's going to be ok, the 55amp is the maximum capacity, If I'm under it I'm ok, but I just need your approval.I will draw my detailed electrical diagram very soon so I need to start making some specific choices.Thanks for any help at all!

evy,The 120 volt alternating current (AC) system is 30 amp.The 55 amp converter provides direct current (DC) power to charge the battery bank and run the twelve volt system of the RV.If not going solar right away (and it is a no brainer to have solar), then at least do a #8 or #6 prewire for solar.The APS-5530 is a single stage charger (or in rv speak, converter). It may eat your battery bank for lunch. I'd get a better 3 stage converter such as an Iota, or Progressive Dynamics.

The 55A is for the converter (DC section) and has nothing to do with the AC Source Power.30A AC Source will be the total amount of AC Load before tripping your AC Source.30A transfer switch is part of the AC side. Allows 2 different AC Sources but only one AC Source feeding your AC Power Panel 55A converter is amount of DC Load converter can handle before it goes into overload mode (shuts down)......supplying DC System and battery charging.Don't see specs on that Atwood Model but suspect it is not a 'smart charger' (3 stage). Most likely just a single stage charger.Boondocking and batteries.....go with a 3 stage converter/charger.Costs more but much better investment

If you plan to run the generator to charge the battery bank, I agree with the previous posters, spend a little more for your converter and get a decent 4 stage system. It will easily pay for itself in reduced fuel consumption during recharge cycles and will let you get a lot more life out of the batteries. They can be had from Amazon for under $200.Jim

Ok I'm looking for a "smart 3 stage charger" as we speak.Quick question, is it better to separate the fuse panels from the charger/converter? I seem to think that the chargers who have the panels included would be easier for me to install (since I never done this before) and maybe cheaper? but maybe they generate more heat since they're all packed up in a tight box? any thoughts/advice?I know this is going to sound dumb, you guys explained that the 30amp are for AC and the 55amp is for DC and has nothing to do with the 30amp, then what size is big enough the Charger? I've seen smart chargers at 35, 45, 55, 75amps etc... which one do I need? Again sorry if I sound lost :-/ but thanks for the info and your patience guys.

Hi,A 55 amp converter (what you are calling a charger) would draw a maximum of about 10 amps @ 120 volts.120 AC volts goes into the converter, and 12 DC volts come out.

Quick electrical question : transfer switch vs charger

evy
Explorer
Feb 13, 2016
I just edited the original post, I will be boondocking but also using shore power, making improvised roadtrips, sometimes camping out in the wild but also in campgrounds.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Feb 13, 2016
That 30 amp system and a converter are useless for boondocking.
2oldman
Explorer II
Feb 13, 2016
evy wrote:
You guys already told me that a 30amp system is more than enough on another thread, but is it ok to have a 55amp charger/converter on a 30amp system?
This question indicates you should spend more time getting a thorough understanding of ac and dc before doing any electrical work.

This should help: 12v side of life.
quasi
Explorer
Feb 13, 2016
One thing I noticed the OP said he had was a microwave/convection oven. I'm pretty sure you'll want to check the power requirements on that since the convection oven uses pretty massive amounts of energy. I'm not sure if the batteries/inverter will be feasible there. It may be generator only.

Jim
evy
Explorer
Feb 13, 2016
Ok thanks for all the advice you guys have given me, I just finished drawing my Electrical diagram and I added the info you guys gave me, I posted it in a new thread, please take a look! :

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28754983/p/1.cfm
YC_1
Nomad
Feb 13, 2016
You do not need an automatic transfer switch. If you install a 30 amp outlet in your power cord storage area and connect the generator to that, assuming it is an onboard generator, then you can just plug the shoreline cord into that. This eliminates one device.
DrewE
Explorer II
Feb 13, 2016
evy wrote:

I was planning on getting a Powerhouse PH2100PRi, 2100watts it's rated at 16.7amp, is that ok?

That should be just fine for any converter, and will power your microwave as well. It may well struggle a little doing both at the same time when the converter is under load (charging the batteries). It looks like a reasonable generator choice to me. (It won't reliably run a standard RV rooftop air conditioner, though two with the parallel kit should do that handily. It might possibly run a little portable or window-mount AC.)

I trust that you've planned and left room to properly vent the fridge (as per the instructions from Dometic).
RJsfishin
Explorer
Feb 13, 2016
Use a 30 amp panel of your choice (do not include a converter)
Use a PD9245 3 stage stand alone converter (a 1000 watt gen will run it)
Use a 300 watt inverter w/ dedicated circuits to tv DVD etc, no transfer switch.
Leave a microwave out of the battery inv picture, until you ready to go bigtime solar.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Feb 13, 2016
Stay away from WFCO.
RoyB
Explorer II
Feb 13, 2016
If you want to charge your two batteries in a quick three hour time frame using smart mode charging then you will need something to produce smart mode 14.4VDC- 13.6VDC-13.2VDC voltage levels with a capacity of at least 17-20AMPS DC CURRENT for each battery in the battery bank.

The 45AMP smart mode converter/charger would be great for a two battery setup. I would not let them talk you into a WFCO converter/charger unit as they are known to have smart mode charging problems. Go with the Progressive or IOTA models.

I am setup for four GP24 Interstate batteries here and I use the PD9260C smart mode 60AMP converter/charger. It takes just a little longer to charge up four batteries. I can do three batteries in the three hour charge time just fine here. It takes around four hours to get from 50% charge state to 90% charge state using four 12VDC batteries in parallel with my off-road trailer powered up by my 2KW Generator.

I have enough room on my OFF-ROAD POPUP roof for three 120WATT Solor Panels. This would be great for me to use the generator first to get past the initial high DC CURRENT demand (about one hour) and then let the solar panels finish my 90% charge state before the high sun goes away around 4PM each day...

My big problem is being able to run the generator anytime I wanted due to most camp grounds I go to here on the East side of the US all seem to have generator run time restrictions in place. Solar Panels would great to use at these places...

I get to use my larger battery bank here parked at the house as well during local power outages. Always great to have power to use from emergency sources...

Roy Ken