refrig drain hose

I have been putting off the same job since spring...last time I checked you have to pull the fridge, but if there is an easier way I am all ears.

Did this on my TT. Had to slide the fridge out about 4 inches to gain access to the backside - the drain is just a bit too high/tight to reach from the outside access panel.

Here's what I did:

Supplies:
4-5 feet of 1/2-inch i.d. clear vinyl tubing from Lowe's/Home Depot-type plumbing dept. (I bought 5, had exactly 1 foot scrap when done)
A package of black, 6- or 8-inch zip-ties (you'll use 5 or 6).
Soapy fluid for gas line check on reassembly.
Bug block for the drain line, from RV supplier.

Tools:
Square-head screwdriver
Straight-blade screwdriver
Flare-nut or open-end wrenches for gas line
Wire cutters

1) GAS VALVES CLOSED AT TANK, 'cause you will likely have to disconnect the gas behind the fridge.

2) Remove screws from the face-frame of the front of the fridge- doors open, mine had two lower, two upper behind the control panel.

3) Remove the outside grill and mounting screws at the back of the fridge- mine had two along the lower frame of the fridge.

4) Disconnect the gas flare fitting. Try to avoid bending the gas lines when separating the fitting.

5) Now you can push/wiggle/slide the fridge into the trailer by enough to get your arm up behind it, about 4 inches in my case.

6) Clip the zip-ties that clamp the old drain line and pull it out.

7) Feed the new tubing up and onto the drain outlet on the back of the fridge. Use a zip-tie as a hose clamp there; clip off the excess tail.

8) Route the tubing down through the condensing tubes minimizing kinks and avoiding the burner chimney. Form a loop to act as a P-trap and align the tube to exit the top-most vent louver; use 3-4 zip-ties to secure it in place, clip excess tails.

9)Slide the fridge back into place and reinstall the mounting screws. Reconnect the gas line; turn the gas valve on at the tank and check the connection with soap-bubble solution; if OK, gas off again.

10) Route the drain line out through the upper louver and reinstall the grill; should have 4-ish inches hanging out. If you have bug screens, you may need to cut an exit hole with wire cutters.

11) Install bug block in drain line and use zip-tie as a hose clamp.

12) Optional (or not :D) frosty adult beverage....

An often overlooked thing about those lines is that they need a trap in them. Without a trap holding a little condensate they are a direct line for cold to escape/heat to come in.

When you do replace it, loop it down and back up to create a trap.

Thanks for input and specifics. Looks do-able when weather cools. I estimate I might need about 2 hours from start to finish. As a stop-gap, and to buy me some time, I am going to try to slip a larger tubing around the short stub that is still attached to the unit. The stub is not that accessible, but I may be able to attach the larger tubing using some silicone adhesive.

I also realized I could attach some tubing to the bottom of the drain hole on the bottom of the inside drain pan, and run the tubing to a container on the bottom of the refrigerator inside. Not great, but a temporary fix.

Thanks again.

I reversed the position of the drain pan inside the refer and put a cup under it. I can't believe how fragile and cheap that drain hose is.

Hi,

Yes, you need a trap--but in winter, if your location goes well beyond the freeze point--remove the trap.

I was able to reach the fitting on mine without moving the fridge. I just needed someone on the inside to hold the drain cup so the hose could be pushed on from the outside. Just took 15 or 20 minutes.