smsinville wrote:
I have a dometic RML8555 refrig. It worked on AC and DC, but not propane. Took into a shop and they said it needed to electronics panel at $600+, but the panel was on nationwide backorder ... would be weeks. I said I'd pick up trailer and return when part was in. Now when I plug it in to 110 at home,the refrigerator is TOTALLY DEAD. Nothing on the eyebrow panel. Called service tech at repair shop, said it was fine when they had it (sure it was!). Don't want to bother taking the trailer in again for now. Question. IS THERE A WAY TO "BYPASS" THE ELECTRONICS FOR IT TO WORK ON 110? In order words, how can I get it to work on 110 (which I assume means converted to 12v) by running converted current directly to the refrigerator bypassing the electronics panel.
That fridge REQUIRES 12V to operate the control board (and "brow board"), if lights not lighting most likely the dealer has disconnected or removed the 12V connection.
As far as "bypassing" the control board.. No, not safely if you are planning to operate more than just for "testing purposes"..
Hooking up the 120V heater element directly to 120V AC will totally eliminate ALL temp controls AND CRITICAL SAFETY CONTROLS!!!
This will potentially and rather easily OVER HEAT THE COOLING UNIT FATALLY DAMAGING A EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE PART OF YOUR FRIDGE!!!
Not to mention causing a potential FIRE HAZARD if cooling unit overheats and cracks.
Dealer price on the control board is way over the top too expensive and there IS a potential source for a AFTERMARKET control board.. Someone already mention Dinosaur boards, they don't directly sell to the public but you can easily find dealers which will sell one to you. They are often much cheaper than OEM but also highly regarded as better made.
For now, IF YOU MUST camp, USE A ICE CHEST AND ICE (or use bottles of ICE in your fridge) or take a small dorm fridge with you...
