Refrigerator cooling question
I have followed all the threads involving improving cooling on RV refrigerators. My Norcold is a constant problem to keep the temps at around 40 degrees. My question is in regards to installing ad...
Forum Discussion
profdant139 wrote:
Running the fan all the time uses electricity. But if you have lots of power, that's not a problem.
Here is another idea -- this should increase the efficiency of the airflow. It's a flue deflector:
Flue deflector -- DIY
It should reduce (or in my case eliminate) the need for fans to improve airflow.
Good luck!
This Deflector is great. BUT, that post is when you have an upper door access. Most RV refers have no upper door but a roof top vent. It is hard to see the roof top vent type install without pulling the refer out of the cabinet. Almost ALL RV refers need one similiar to that deflector. The problem with rear Hot air is that open area above the refer. This allows some of the hot exhaust air to stagnate in that open air and causes lack of free flow of air. If you refer did NOT come with a outside rear cooling fan, it was not needed for correct factory installs and regular Hot temp operation. IF you have NO roof vent but 2 side access doors(upper and lower) you NEED a fan above the rear back condensing fins blowing air OUT the upper door. This is what that link for the deflector the guy should have added. Just having a fan blowing from the bottom below the Fins thru the fins will not adequately exhaust the hot air out the upper side access door. Adding a fan for roof top exhaust(blowing up thru the bottom of the fins also helps if your refer did not come with a OEM fan. One problem people have with RV refers is, they may have a slight blockage in the cooling unit caused by years of those short times the refer was run off level. NOTHING you do will restore complete cooling. You can make it better but will never respond like a unpartial blocked CU.
