Some RVs have inaccessible propane tanks and require a remote electric solenoid valve to stop the flow of gas, the manual knob being unreachable. And some RVs have propane detectors that incorporate an electric shut-off also, like mine. If I turn the detector off or it senses gas, it will shut off the flow from the tank.I was told the remote switch on some class Bs draw .75 amps while keeping the flow of gas going. Over a 24 hour period that's 18 amps. No big deal if you're plugged in, but if you're boondocking, that's a bunch just to run the fridge.Is there a more economical and legal way to not use as much juice?TIA,Eric

Most of the detectors that utilize the cutoff solenoid are older units as they are no longer required on new motorhomes. It would be a good idea to test yours to see if it actually can detect propane. I believe five years is their estimated service life. If it can’t detect propane, you can replace it with one that does not use the solenoid. You can then remove the solenoid entirely as long as you can access the valve knob. When I removed mine I replaced it with an Extend-a-stay adapter. It made up for the gap created when the solenoid was removed just fine. It also eliminated the current draw the cutoff solenoid was creating.

Easiest way put a 100 watt solar panel on your roof... that'll easily cut your 200 watt load in half.If you're looking for a valve that opens when the power is off, rather than closes, that defeats the point of the safety feature.Honestly, 18 amps over 24 hrs is not that much, your fridge board, CO/LP detector, tank monitor probably use more... how many batteries do you have? 18 amps would be 2.25% of my 800 amp-hour battery bank capacity.

Remove the solenoid, it isn't required.

This isn't about my rig, it's about a Class B that I am considering. You cannot remove the solenoid because the tank is way under the van and you can't reach the manual knob. This is typical of Class Bs.I was just wondering if there was some other electric device that only required voltage to change from open to closed without using juice to maintain one state or the other.

You probably have a CCI propane detector with solenoid. It draws 0.168 milliamp when holding the solenoid valve open. That's 4 amps in 24 hours. The solenoid has a 9 volt coil and is maintained with 1.5-2 volts. Very economical.CCI is out of business but there is a guy repairing the detectors. If you need repair you can contact Larry at ccirepairs@gmail.comRichard

Remote LP Shut-Off and Battery Usage | Good Sam Community

beemerphile1
Explorer
Apr 11, 2014
I'm sure it would be possible to install a manual shut off valve somewhere in the system. It obviously wouldn't shut off the tank if that is inaccessible but would stop flow to the appliances. Look where the LPG piping enters the interior, it will probably be in a cabinet. Install a valve there and then remove the solenoid.

I'm confident that if I was standing there beside you I could find a way to make it work. Alas, I am not beside you, I am in front of a monitor.
eric1514
Explorer
Apr 11, 2014
Sloop Smitten wrote:
Nice Eric. People try to help you and you go smart aleck. Stay classy.

I guess I was unclear in my first post. I tried to clarify a few posts later. Let me try again, although 'gmctoyman' probably answered my question already.

Many Class B RVs have inaccessible propane tanks. The fill and shutoff is done remotely. Is there an alternative electric/manual valve that can turn off the flow of propane remotely that doesn't draw .75-.8 amps? Removing the solenoid is not an option. You need to be able to shut off the tank.
Sloop_Smitten
Explorer
Apr 11, 2014
Nice Eric. People try to help you and you go smart aleck. Stay classy.
gmctoyman
Explorer
Apr 11, 2014
Eric, I had the same in my Leisure Travel Sprinter, and I agree the "phantom" load is a PITA for dry camping. Never figured a way around it with an inaccessible tank valve.

Edit, mine drew .8A
eric1514
Explorer
Apr 11, 2014
I regret ever mentioning the propane detector in my coach.
dougrainer
Nomad
Apr 11, 2014
Sloop Smitten wrote:
Most of the detectors that utilize the cutoff solenoid are older units as they are no longer required on new motorhomes. It would be a good idea to test yours to see if it actually can detect propane. I believe five years is their estimated service life. If it can’t detect propane, you can replace it with one that does not use the solenoid. You can then remove the solenoid entirely as long as you can access the valve knob. When I removed mine I replaced it with an Extend-a-stay adapter. It made up for the gap created when the solenoid was removed just fine. It also eliminated the current draw the cutoff solenoid was creating.

They were never required on Motorhomes. They were installed by some OEM's as a "safety feature". But, as these OEM's found out(the cci type) they were prone to fail. The current types on Class B's and the older Monaco Class A's were just standard ON /OFF 12 volt switches to a 12 volt solenoid. I do not have the specs for the amp draw, but it IS a 12 volt solenoid, NOT like the CCI type systems. Doug
RLS7201
Explorer II
Apr 11, 2014
You probably have a CCI propane detector with solenoid. It draws 0.168 milliamp when holding the solenoid valve open. That's 4 amps in 24 hours. The solenoid has a 9 volt coil and is maintained with 1.5-2 volts. Very economical.
CCI is out of business but there is a guy repairing the detectors. If you need repair you can contact Larry at ccirepairs@gmail.com

Richard
eric1514
Explorer
Apr 10, 2014
This isn't about my rig, it's about a Class B that I am considering. You cannot remove the solenoid because the tank is way under the van and you can't reach the manual knob. This is typical of Class Bs.

I was just wondering if there was some other electric device that only required voltage to change from open to closed without using juice to maintain one state or the other.
beemerphile1
Explorer
Apr 10, 2014
Remove the solenoid, it isn't required.
GordonThree
Explorer
Apr 10, 2014
Easiest way put a 100 watt solar panel on your roof... that'll easily cut your 200 watt load in half.

If you're looking for a valve that opens when the power is off, rather than closes, that defeats the point of the safety feature.

Honestly, 18 amps over 24 hrs is not that much, your fridge board, CO/LP detector, tank monitor probably use more... how many batteries do you have? 18 amps would be 2.25% of my 800 amp-hour battery bank capacity.

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