Removing 50 Amp RV Surge Protector

Is it really worth all the fuss vs. Buying a new unit when/if you get a new RV.
I tend to keep my stuff a while so I can't imagine going through all the uninstalling and reinstalling in order to install a 10 year old EMS into a new RV.
I have no future plans to buy an RV now, however when the time comes I will want the latest technology EMS available vs. my old one.
I understand the old one will be free (paid For) but it will still be too old to install into my new RV!

CA Traveler wrote:
Do you have enough slack in the wire to cut it and then rejoin it one junction box?

Using plugs seems to be a good option for you.

I do have lots of slack to rejoin in a junction box. I'll keep looking for plugs

I mounted our 30 amp PI EMS adjacent to our panel. What I noticed at first was that the way the terminal/lug is designed in the contactor, if using solid wire, there is flat surface on two sides of a round wire making contact - screw on one side, flat surface on opposite side. IMO, this does not provide a good contact (see photo), may loosen and could lead to overheating.

What I did is use short lengths of stranded wire and spliced it to the incoming solid conductors inside the EMS unit. (can't seem to find a photo I thought I took). If done this way, you won't have to remove any jacket material from the existing incoming 30 or 50 amp wire and can easily be redirected back into the panel in the future. I used stranded cabtire cable from the EMS into the panel as it was readily available. Doing it this way would be easier and cheaper than plugs & connectors.

If your shore power cord goes directly to the panel (ie., isn't the detachable type), then not a problem because the cord has stranded wire.

For splices, I used vibration proof marrette connectors for splicing solid to stranded wire as it makes for a better connection.

Another thing I'll mention while on the subject, is that IIRC, the instructions (on the 30 amp unit at least) say to connect the incoming & outgoing ground wires via ring terminals to a stud inside the box. Instead I spliced the incoming & outgoing wires directly together then with a 3 piece of wire over to the stud. You want a really good connection with the incoming & outgoing grounds for safety and under short circuit conditions.

A plug and connector is a good idea but you'll need two sets to make it work. You shouldn't really be using romex with them and should be using flexible cable or power cord which would mean a junction box to convert romex to cable. As well, if using two sets of plugs and connectors, you'll have a lot more connection/contact points (wire to plug/connector & connector to plug, times two) - 6 per conductor as opposed to 1 splice. Fewer connections is always better. Nobody will ever see what you do or inspect it tho. so it's up to you... Can't see any reason why you'd need a twistlock connector/plug and straight blade will be fine.

I have read of a few cases of these things having a meltdown and I suspect it could have been due to poor connections.

Bobbo wrote:
I used twist lock plug/sockets. Mine is 30 amp, but the principle is the same.

Bobbo, That doesnt look like heavy enough wire for 30amp? Looks from the photo like standard Romex wiring for 15amp circuit.

I used twist lock plug/sockets. Mine is 30 amp, but the principle is the same.

If you're only removing the EMS to sell the TT, I'd use the junction box. The plug arrangement would make life easier though, if you needed to bypass the EMS while on a trip for some reason.

Do you have enough slack in the wire to cut it and then rejoin it one junction box?

Using plugs seems to be a good option for you.

Lenny K wrote:
I found some other types on the net but would be looking at $80 to do it. I'll keep looking. Thanks

It's your choice obviously but you did say -

"... but I was looking for some options as it will be a real bear disconnecting the wires at the panel"

The answer (to me) is obvious - spend the $80 on connectors, do the installation once, and you'll be done with it. Anytime you want to remove your EMS for any reason simply unplug it, butt the two remaining connectors together, and the rig will be powered as it always is, sans EMS.

I would NOT cut any wires. I would buy a 3 ft or so section of wire adequate for the job, unhook wires to cord, hook surge protector to coach using short length of wire, and hook original wires to SP. easy to remove when selling RV. and its returned to the original setup. if it is really "impossible" to remove wires from panel, just cut the wire as close as you can and then figure out some way to fix things when you go to sell.
bumpy

smkettner wrote:
Are you installing in the middle of a long wire run? Or near one end?

If near the end just disconnect the wire and connect to the EMS direct. No cut. Then add a short romex from the EMS to the place where you disconnected. Upon removal just put it back oem.

It will be connected at the end of the run by the panel/converter. My original plan is to do as you suggested but I was looking for some options as it will be a real bear disconnecting the wires at the panel.
Decisions, decisions.