Removing converter and adding charger, inverter, + solar

I recently purchased a 21 ft 1971 Coachman travel trailer. It has an updated electrical system but it is still at least 15 years old I would say. It has a converter with a charger (not a 3-way) and no inverter. Since we do a fair bit of dry camping, I would like to add an inverter as well as removing the converter and adding a smart charger. I don't have the money for a fancy inverter with a built in 3 stage charger so after doing some research, it appears that my best option would be to remove the converter all together and add in a charger. I have a solar panel that can beef up my batteries. When I plug in, my batteries can be topped up by the new charger.

I'm looking for an economical solution and something I can do myself so I've come up with the following. I'd appreciate any technical advice and feedback since I've never put a system like this together.

Removing converter- So I haven't been able to find my DC fuse box, so I'm assuming it's in my converter? I'll need to wire in a new fuse box, has anyone ever done this before? Here is a photo of my electrical compartment with converter (120v breaker box is to the left of converter).

Inverter - Going for a cheap option. Walmart has a Cobra CPI 880 on for $75. It's a basic 800W Msw. We won't be running much of anything off it other than charging laptops, phones, tablets and then running some little Christmas lights or something similar for outside. inverter specs

Charger - Looking at the Genius G7200. Has all the smart features I think I'll need. Sells for $130 at Canadian tire so within my price range. charger details

Install - For the inverter/charger install I'll be following one I found here

I'm going with option 4, so I'll hook up a 30 Amp receptacle in my electrical cabinet so the inverter goes from battery, to inverter, to receptacle. When using the inverter, I turn it on, then plug my shore power cord into the new receptacle and viola! The rig thinks I'm plugged into shore power power and all my lights and outlets work as normal. During the day, my solar panel charges my batteries.

For shore power charging of the batteries, I'll install an outlet in the electrical cabinet that the charger will plug into along with a switch to activate the plug (a double safety to make sure that I'm not using the inverter to charge the batteries- I'll need to plug the charger in AND flip the switch to turn on charging). I'll also need to turn the inverter on so I guess that will be a triple safety.

Monitoring
Due to cost and the relative simplicity of my system, I'm going with a DIY monitoring system that will include a basic voltmeter and ammeter. There are a few posts on here and a lot of people have said that they've done this project, but I haven't found a very detailed description of how to specifically do this including wiring? What are the specs on the voltmeter and ammeter I should be getting and what would be the best wiring configuration? Would this work for the dc side of things and this work for the ac side? My understanding is the voltmeter would determine charge capacity (how much juice is in the batteries) and the ammeter would tell me how much current is going in or out of the batteries (or in from shore power)? I would also like to be able to tell how much juice my solar panel is providing (I have a charge controller, but it's mounted on the panel so it would be nice to have everything in one place).

I realize this is a long post with a lot of info and questions, so I appreciate if you've made it this far! Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Feel free to fire questions at me if you need more info!

Thanks!

westend
Explorer
May 14, 2015
After looking through the manual, I'd upgrade the converter, too. Don't buy a standalone charger. The killer on the existing converter is that manual switch.

Check your local Craigslist for someone selling trailer parts or buy an inexpensive new one would be my suggestions.
pianotuna
Nomad III
May 14, 2015
x2 on a converter upgrade, especially if planning to generator recharge.
time2roll
Nomad
May 14, 2015
SirBenji wrote:
I'm good with only 300W, but the pSW inverter is about $220. Significantly more than my $75 option (although undoubtedly better)

I won't be charging with a generator, only shore power.

Combo unit = big $. I'm thinking basic auto fuse box for about $20. They'll be right next to each other and I have lots of space.

Get a 300w MSW. Samlex 250w at Don Rowe inverters is just $26.

I honestly think you are better with a regular converter. A Small IOTA is just $158. 15a IOTA w/IQ

The combo unit I posted would also replace the Genius so not that much extra. Would need a couple breakers but still a superior solution.
pianotuna
Nomad III
May 14, 2015
Here is the manual for the existing converter:

Philips 201
MrWizard
Moderator
May 14, 2015
i ran things on MSW for many years, one of those little yellow ones from "pep boys"
i now have a 300w Go Power PSW, but we bought IT for the "dang digital controller" on the electric blanket and mattress pad (one of each don't use them at the same time)

that converter..read the specs closely if its original its 20amps for the house 12v circuits when plugged in to 120v and only 3~6amps trickle charge for the battery, which is okay if you only go camping for the week end and leave it plugged in all week at home to recharge

100w Solar , about 6-7amps charge, is okay for week end use , it will help off set, the use of lights etc.. so the batteries don't go dead

but if your going to take any vacation time, dry camping you need some kind of heavy duty aux charging, a generator under the picnic table will charge your batteries even when its raining

you can add another charger any where between the converter and the batteries
just connect the 12v wires together, like connecting extra batteries or the clamp solar you have,
i would want at least 25amp charger..and more is better, look around for a 25amp vector from black & decker

if all you want is lights and water pump, NO TV. or electronics, you can forget the extra charger and the inverter,
but to run stuff from the inverter you need to be able to recharge the batteries
solar doesn't always shine enough to do the job
BFL13
Explorer II
May 14, 2015
Our 1981 Frontier truck camper had the original converter in it.(Made in Winnipeg) It has a sort of charger to it that is broken. Tossed that whole thing even though it did the converter job, it didn't charge enough amps even if the charger did work.

No DC fuse panel and a three-breaker AC panel for the three 120v circuits in it.

The DC fuses are on the individual DC positive wires scattered here and there instead of being collected on a "panel"

I did a "few modifications" but the main thing from the OP's point of view, is that you can get your DC from the batteries and don't need any converter at all even on shore power (which just gets you some 120v)

If the batteries get low, you can charge them up with any old battery charger using the 120v shore power or your solar or both.

You don't need a nice pretty fuse panel if the wires are already fused here and there, and you sure don't need a converter unless you want one to be your charger and also to be able to run the rig's 12v when no batteries are installed (when is that ever?)

Can Tire has their 1000w PSW inverter (a Xantrex unit) on sale again, this time for $199. A couple of years ago the sale price on that was $120. Inverter prices are sneaking back up again as well as our dollar is in the sewer again for some reason (We are not the country that is trillions in the hole, so how come it is our dollar in the sewer? Oh well)

BTW, the truck camper is now rigged up for a five day off grid session coming up with:

-230w solar panel and Eco-Worthy controller

- four batteries (two Exide 226AH 6s in the truck bed where the wheel wells are not, and two 12v T-1275s at 270AH approx inside the camper, in parallel as one bank at almost 500AH

-2000w Vector MSW inverter to run the electric-only Igloo brand fridge (3.2 cuft that draws about 4.5 amps DC when "on") plus any microwaving (Sharp 1000w cooking power) and toaster and TV/DVD, whatever 120w stuff happens

-if needed if the batts get low and some 120v can be located, a PowerMax 100amp converter

(Borrowed some of that from our 5er just for now)

The solar is supposed to take care of the electric fridge while the batteries draw down normally doing the other stuff for a five day run. Big battery recovery when back home coming up!

Loaded for bear and ready to go! (As long as we get some sunshine or else we are doomed---no generator :( )
2oldman
Explorer II
May 13, 2015
westend wrote:
. You WANT a pure sine inverter. The additional cost between MSW and PSW will evaporate the first time a cheap inverter fries a laptop or phone charger.
X2.

MSW is known to cause chargers to heat up. The cheaper you go, the louder the cooling fan gets. And some run all the time.
JiminDenver
Explorer II
May 13, 2015
I exclusively dry camp and wouldn't remove my converter just in the instance my solar couldn't keep up and I had to use the generator. I hate listening to it but I'm not losing my batteries over it. Even with 750w there will come a day.....

also if you don't exclusively dry camp, you need some way of plugging in when in a camp ground.
Dakota98
Explorer
May 13, 2015
No one has said anything yet, but for what you're attempting to do I think you're 100 watt solar panel is a bit small.
westend
Explorer
May 13, 2015
Those older deck mount converters are not all that bad. When I renovated my '71 I chose to keep the old PD-808. Mine also has the 12v distribution integral to the converter. There are probably 3 or more fuses behind the hinged front plate.

I'd suggest to keep the converter you have and use it for the trailer power and auxiliary battery charger. Basically, don't do anything with it. Get your new fancy battery charger and connect that to the existing battery when needed or hardwire it in. I'd leave it portable so you can use it somewhere else. If you get enough solar power going, you won't need a charger. Mine hasn't been run in over a year.

As to an inverter, listen to the wise ones on here that have used their inverters. You WANT a pure sine inverter. The additional cost between MSW and PSW will evaporate the first time a cheap inverter fries a laptop or phone charger. Your other entertainment gear and anything with a selector switch will not get along with the cheap MSW either. Beyond that, cheap inverters fail within a year or so, it's your money.

If you have any questions about your '71 and need some help, post it up in the Forum or send me a PM. I like me some vintage travel trailer.

EDit: I see there was some speculation about the existing converter. The input draw at 120V is 3 amps. The output is 20 amps (might be different and you should at least measure voltage across the battery terminals when you operate it) so you know what you have. If you have solar and a standalone charger, the output is moot since the 20 amps will serve your cabin loads well. If you get in a situation where you want to charge the battery fast, you can connect all three chargers to the battery-solar, existing, and the new standalone.

BTW, I have some analog gauges for my electrical (and a Victron monitor). The installation of the gauges is easy, connect 12V gauges to the 12V wiring in the easiest spot, same with 120V if you are going to monitor that. An amperage gauge is best with a shunt since that will enable you to monitor the draw to/from the battery and not inline at some odd place. Turnigy meters are well respected around here but there are cheaper solutions.

I have pictures of some of this in my restoration thread in my signature line, The Cowboy/Hilton.