Repair Battery Posts? UPDATE-Photos

smkettner wrote:

BFL13 wrote:
The problem with "real" post clamps is that on the peculiar 6s' posts, they don't go on right and you can't do much with them expanding and squeezing, the jaws are too fat.

Did you try with post clamps made for "positive" & "negative"?
If you used positive clamps they may not tighten properly on the negative.
Otherwise I though all automotive were standard... maybe not.

It is hard to describe the whole sorry business, but yes those real clamps come in two sizes. You can get a liner to use a big one on a small post. Some clamps are lead-like and can be squeezed or expanded some without breaking, but others are hard metal that just breaks if you try that.

The 6s have posts without being all the way around where the second part comes out and they are also very short and not as fat as on a normal 12v. They are not built to take those regular clamps. But the 6s aren't the same either.

My Exides have a small space underneath the top post part with the bolt in it, where you could maybe jam in a U shaped piece with a hole in the other end. My Interstate 6s don't have that space underneath IIRC (will see when I get back).

The T-1275s have "6v" type posts instead of the usual regular posts like on a 27DC. So it is not a 12v vs 6v thing completely.

If the 6s came with the same sort of posts as a 27DC it would be no problem. If the threaded bolt came away, you could just use those regular clamps on the other part which is the same as on a car battery.

I have no idea why the 6s have that low big round flat piece beside the taller small post holing the bolt. You can't clamp to it. Actually on the old U-2200s you could just barely, but on these newer style GC2 XHDs it is lower so you can't at all. Oh well. Never say die! Something will work once I get to it.