Replacing black water cable valve

dougrainer wrote:
.... As to an "arrow" pointing which way?????? In 37 years whether it was Valterra or Bristol, I have NEVER seen an arrow and if you REALLY understand the design and how the flanges/seals are utilized, you would know that the valves have no front or back. .... Doug

I respectively disagree with you and really take offense that you choose to post a bash and call me a liar.:R

There WAS an arrow on the flat end on the top indicating the direction of the flow of water. The arrow was a molded part of the blade not a label so it was the same color as the blade.

AND if YOU REALLY understood the valve blade. The Bristol valve I installed DID have a front and back. A look at the blade itself showed that they were NOT flat but that one edge of the blade itself is slanted to fit. Arrow on top showed that the slant on blade should face the water flow.

Is this arrow still on the newer Bristol valves I don't know haven't had to replace one in the past few years. But do NOT call me a liar and that I don't understand. If you want to bash forum members find another forum to do so.

I can see one advantage to the twist on waste valve is having the ability to fill the waste line up with water, even water with a chemical to help dissolve any debris around the valve. And to change a cable valve in the underbelly, aggregation does not begin to describe the process.

I do have the twist lock valve on the end. I like having the control to force the gray water back up into the black water tank.

Any suggestions on a chemical to use to clean the valve slide?

Thanks,
Sean

Just letting it soak in water may help but I would think any of the commercial black chemicals would work. Others may have a better idea. As for me I had to change the valve because a dish rag was caught in the valve...don't ask.

rockhillmanor wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
.... As to an "arrow" pointing which way?????? In 37 years whether it was Valterra or Bristol, I have NEVER seen an arrow and if you REALLY understand the design and how the flanges/seals are utilized, you would know that the valves have no front or back. .... Doug

I respectively disagree with you and really take offense that you choose to post a bash and call me a liar.:R

There WAS an arrow on the flat end on the top indicating the direction of the flow of water. The arrow was a molded part of the blade not a label so it was the same color as the blade.

AND if YOU REALLY understood the valve blade. The Bristol valve I installed DID have a front and back. A look at the blade itself showed that they were NOT flat but that one edge of the blade itself is slanted to fit. Arrow on top showed that the slant on blade should face the water flow.

Is this arrow still on the newer Bristol valves I don't know haven't had to replace one in the past few years. But do NOT call me a liar and that I don't understand. If you want to bash forum members find another forum to do so.

I did NOT call you a Liar. YOU took what I posted to think that. I guess the excess of 500 of Bristol/Valterra valves I have replaced over the years, even tho according to you I had a 50/50 chance of getting the arrow pointing the right way, I somehow ALWAYS installed it correctly. ALL the valves I have seen are slanted on both sides. Can you take a pic of yours showing this arrow? Doug

PS. I opened up some 3 and 1.5 inch valves off the parts shelf and NONE have any arrows. Doug

I bought one of those twist on valves while on the road a couple of years ago. Worked for me.

However being kinda whatever upstairs I replaced the valve at my own leisure, Amazon has the whole Valterra assy to include the cable.

Ain't nothing like that stuff that runs down your arm and puddles in your arm pit when changing one of then. :W

Having just done this on a 2012 Montana, I can provide some tips to make your job easier and cleaner.

• The 2010 Montana has a dropped frame. This makes access to the valves easy. Just remove the screws at the rear edge of the dropped frame and a couple of feet along the sides. This will be enough to "roll" the rear edge of the coroplast forward to expose the valves.
  
• Do flush the black tank to minimize residual stuff and odors.
  
• Lower the front end of the RV (either park on a hill or drop the front jacks) to avoid having liquid exiting the tank when you remove the valve.
  
• As others have written, Montana (and others) build the sewer lines with no free space. Getting the valve out/in can be a challenge. The trick is to cut the sewer pipe after the "Y" where the black and grey tank meet. Remove about an inch of pipe. Stop by your favorite hardware store and pick up a No-Hub connector and two hose clamps. Slide the No-Hub all the way on the sewer pipe before you change the valve. That way you have room to extract the current valve and install the new one without crimping the seals. Then slide the No-Hub into place and tighten up the hose clamps.

I changed the valve in mine in about 2 hours, not having ever done it before. Also I don't work fast - I am old and retired and don't have to anymore.