Roof Top Solar connector part number needed

For the record, I never said to run without a charge controller.

Getting back to the OP's original question - a good source for SAE connectors, including surface mount & connectors with #12 wire is SolarSeller.com.

Up to you whether you use them or a better connector...

Almot wrote:
"Dual purpose" battery might be common on small TT, though there isn't much reason to choose it over a deep cycle in this application.

Availability and price.

The terminology can be a gray area, because - Marketing.

Dual purpose (often called "Marine" or "RV" batteries) are very readily available. Many batteries labeled as "Deep Cycle" fall into that category. If you look at a Walmart "Deep Cycle" battery, it's hyped as "maintenance free," meaning it's not built so you can check and fill the cells with water - something a real deep cycle battery would always allow. But, they sell lots of 'em to RVers, because they're inexpensive, readily available, "deep cycle" batteries.

A true deep cycle battery, such as made by Trojan, Rolls-Surrette, or Concorde, is much harder to find and much more expensive.

Hard to understand what the topic is about, at that point, just a few things that caught my eye.

"Dual purpose" battery might be common on small TT, though there isn't much reason to choose it over a deep cycle in this application.

The words Renogy and "quality manufacturers" don't belong together. Their practices place it closer to the bottom. Besides, they don't "manufacture" - controllers in these kits are by another company (or a few companies). Panel is a commodity, it either works or not.

Need some morning coffee to boost my, er... tolerance to this kind of things.

I also cut off the connector, mounted a weather tight box to the roof, and made the connection within using wire nuts. I have 2 100 watt panels and approximately 3' of 10 gauge wire from the roof to the controller, then 5 feet of 10 gauge wire from the controller to the batteries.

No worries, I did use a controller

No documentation to support your claims. An LP/CO detector draws under 100 mA (my Atwood one draws 50 mA). That's insignificant in comparison to the 2+ A even a 40W panel will put out.

Feel free to ruin your own battery, but don't give bad advice which will cause others to do so. This has been discussed many times, and you're way outside the well accepted norms. Here is an empirical test which shows a 12 W panel charging a 220 AH bank to over 15 V. That's enough to damage batteries, if left in place.

mike-s wrote:

Claiming a 60W panel doesn't need a controller is simply irresponsible.

It took a few moments for my 60w direct connected to a new G24 to be @ 16v before I disconnected.

Sorry, Mike. You need to do some more reading about Zamp, without using quality manufacturer's like Renogy. You're the only one quoting a 60w panel. Zamp's smallest is, in fact, a 40. Barely adequate to maintain a battery bank, replacing loads like CO detector, never mind replacing lighting use, any inverter loads, etc. The Zamp website has lots of sparkle, but very little meat. Too high price-wise for the end return.

Kind of offtrack but be warned anyway---WD40 will deteriorate certain rubber and plastic parts. I certainly wouldn't use it where it can pool on top of rubber parts.