Routing Solar Wires Through Fridge Vent

https://www.southavenrv.com/rv/jayco/traveltrailer/1412/Jayco_Jay_Feather_Ultra_Lite_X19H

Depends how big of a solar array you intend to mount. Your rig is not that big, so long wire runs are not so much of a problem.

In the old days with a smaller solar array, you could go down the fridge vent to the controller mounted on the wall by the fridge and the wires from the controller "to battery" would then back into the fridge vent and down to the 12v junction where the fridge gets its 12v. (with set screws for the wires)

That is connected to the battery, but with fairly thin wires. However if you have a small array the wires might be fat enough to do the job well enough for what you want. "It depends".

I would suggest checking the temp rating on the wire and measure the temperature near the top of the vent while the burner is running.

You already have lots of holes in the roof. Just seal with Dicor.
If the fridge vent is not ideal I would go with the J-Box sealed to the roof.
Possibly use a GoPower cable entry. https://gpelectric.com/products/cable-entry-plate/

Thanks everybody again!
I am still going forth and back on how exactly to do the wiring.

ajriding wrote:

Whatever you do make the most direct path to the batteries (controller too) that you can. DC power likes short wires of big gauge.

Yeah, that's one of the issues. The fridge vent location is not ideal. I would likely need an ~ 18ft run from controller to the batteries. Ideal would be almost diagonally from the fridge vent, at the right front trailer corner, going straight down into the storage compartment below, install controller there, and then route like 4 or 5 feet (through the floor) to the batteries on the tongue.
But I do not like the idea of having to drill a hole through the rubber roof of my X19H. :?

I drilled a hole in the side of the vent and used a 2 hole strain relief. These are waterproof.

https://solarconduit.com/shop/strain-relief-watertight-1-2-inch-2-holes-12-guage.html

For the wire down I used an MC4 extension cable cut in half. MC4 ends to the panels, cut ends on the controller.

Considering all the possible options on mine I ended up just snipping the bug screen and ran wires through the top opening of refridge vent. Easiest and with no new holes comes no new leaks…

Route wires from the back side if you do this so rain water when driving will not run up the wire and into the compartment.
Also, this method is very un-doable if you remove the solar system.

Whatever you do make the most direct path to the batteries (controller too) that you can. DC power likes short wires of big gauge.

dougrainer wrote:
Remove the refer vent cover and just snake the wiring thru the holes in the mesh. OR, drill a hole in the side of the mesh cover(not the lid), snake the wires thru there and then seal with silicone. Just drill your hole towards the top to prevent water run off from the roof hitting the hole. Doug

Thanks everybody!
When drilling into the side of the mesh cover, do you use dicor to seal? Or really silicone?

I have done a lot of cable paths under my floor on my off-road popup trailer using the PVC CONDUIT and ELECTRICAL Conduit boxes. When I need to come up under cabinets inside the POPUP I cut a hole in the bottom of the conduit box...

I actually did a round robin under my floor shown in blue below and have at least 4-5 places where it comes up inside the trailer. The beauty of this is all my cables are now inside PVC conduit and electrical boxes. After I am done then I can mount the conduit box lid and all is out of the way...

This is a typical PVC Conduit box with ports. They come in all sizes with all kinds of port configuration. When I need to get inside the trailer I cur a hole in the middle of the box. Then I can seal everything with sealant. No more pulling cables off under my trailer when running the back off road trailer with my POPUP...


Google image


Roy's image

I will probably go with the same more permanent installation for my up coming solar plans for the roof... I like to drill holes in the side of the roof to gain entrance to the inside of the trailer and not on the roof itself... I expect I will be using the ALUMINUM UNISTRUT going across the roof and attached to brackets on the side of the roof where I can drill holes...

Something like this...


google image

I can run another install between my roof mounted air condition and the end of the roof...

I add some PVC Electrical boxes on the side and go through the side to another PVC BOX ion the inside behind the wrap around valance curtains we have that goes around the whole inside of the trailer... Every thing will be in conduit and out of sight...

Hanging flapping wires on the side of the trailer would not be my thing to do...

Of course everyone has different situations..

Just some of my planning here for future solar panels... I am seriously thinking about removing my Air Conditioner and adding a second fantastic fan in the 14-inch hole through the roof. This will free up a lot of room on the roof for solar panels... Since we are off-grid most of the time the Air Conditioner doesn't get used much for us...

Roy Ken

also, there are sharp edges sending wires that way. A piece of sprinkler pipe down to the bottom of the fridge will protect the wire.

Remove the refer vent cover and just snake the wiring thru the holes in the mesh. OR, drill a hole in the side of the mesh cover(not the lid), snake the wires thru there and then seal with silicone. Just drill your hole towards the top to prevent water run off from the roof hitting the hole. Doug