How will i know if this will work ok and not burn up my ac unit, what will i need to know, volts/amp, i have a volt tester ????Im thinking i am running off of a 20 amp receptical.Any help would be appreciated

20 Amp will work if the run to the panel is short and no other high draw appliances are running on the same circuit. I have heard of folks melting plugs when they used an extension cord to get power to their RV from a garage outlet. Make sure you only use the trailer power cord or a short heavy duty extension cord to reach the outlet.

No problems running converter, fridge, and 1 high amperage appliance on 20amps, as long as you have the proper adapters and cords.

You can run one or the other but not both at the same time.

What is of concern when running your AC unit is the amount of voltage drop and that can be easily measured. First of all use your TT's power cord if at all possible as most extension cords will amplify any voltage drop. Turn on your AC and let run for a couple of minutes, measure voltage at any household outlet within your rig. You want to have at least 108VAC or above when running your AC unit, anything less and the risk to compressor failure significantly increases.

I have two of trailers parked here at home both plugged into 120VAC receptacles in my garage that are on separate circuit breakers. My receptacles are 15AMP version but the breakers feeding them is a 20AMP circuit breaker in the mains box.I use 50-foot 10 GAUGE (10-3) extension cords running out to the middle of the yard where the 30AMP shore power cables from the trailer get to. I have used a 12 gauge size extension cord without any issues but would not recommend going any smaller than 12-gauge.I use a RV30A-15A long dogbone style ADAPTER (WALMART) and would not recommend using any of the small round type adapters as they have always got hot on me over time. The long dogbone adapters run cool to touch.I would not use any of these small round type adapters Using these small adapter will result in your shor power looking this over time and will need to be replaced and could be the source of voltage drop in the trailer when being used.Prior to hooking up o the garage receptacles or to the ends of the long extension cord laying in the yard I use one of the circuit testers (LOWES) to insure I have proper test lights showing NORMAL before using the 120VAC source. Inside the trailer i use one of these RV 120VAC plug-in VOLTMETERS in a location where I can get a quick glance before turning on my air conditioner.This is how I insure all is ok to use the 120VAC power from my garage 20AMP service prior to being used. Been doing this since 2009 without any problems and run just about everything inside the trailers including the air conditioner and high wattage microwave. The only thing to watch for is not to have two many high wattage items on the same time otherwise it will trip your garage breaker.I feel my connections on a regular basis to make sure none of them are getting hot on me.My garage 120VAC operation Roy Ken

running ac or micro unit on tt while parked at home ??

Grumpy374
Explorer
Jul 16, 2014
I don't worry about my rv power cord length, meters, test probes or what I'm running. With a dedicated 30 amp breaker and outlet, I plug my Lexi in, and leave it 24/7. I run whatever I want, ac, micro, anything. Even take my compressor and run it off the outside outlet on the rig. Bottom line is simply to run 30 amp service. Thats the safest way You don't have to worry about extention cords or tripping a breaker in your garage when you have to use the outlets. Don't have to worry about cords or adapters getting hot. Don't have to worry about what you can or can't turn on.
Mi Lexi has been plugged in, when we're not on the road, for almost a year now, and I've not had one problem.
Again, for the cost of all your heavy extension cords and conversion plugs and testers, you can install a 30 amp line, for less than 100 bucks, and not have to worry.
Grumpy
myredracer
Explorer II
Jul 16, 2014
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:

All 20-amp receptacles are Specification Grade.

Not so sure about that. Leviton has a 20 amp T-slot in residential grade. 20 amp T-slot residential grade recept.

Leviton also has this one in 15 amp residential grade.

FWIW, I have a single 20 amp T-slot SCD RV receptacle I took out of a previous TT. I don't think they have a grade designation on RV wiring devices?

Agree on going to a better grade receptacle like spec. grade for plugging in something like an RV. If you want even better retention force, try a hospital grade one... ;) Larger gauge wire, at least #12 is a good idea too. I ran #8 (50 amp) to the 30A recept. in our carport.
pacamper
Explorer
Jul 16, 2014
I also just removed a 25 ' heavy duty 12 gauge ext cord from the equation, turned the ac on again, dropped from 123 volts to only 119, so that made a big difference.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Jul 16, 2014
This is what a 20 amp receptacle looks like.

Don't try and connect to a receptacle that looks like the one below

The contacts inside the 20-amp receptacle are thicker and they grip tighter. I like to see 20 ampere circuits for RV's dedicated meaning they feed nothing else in the house. I also like 10 gauge wire to the receptacle. Follow other respondent's advice about wire size. All 20-amp receptacles are Specification Grade. The one inside your house probably cost the builder 19 cents. He got cheated. They are junk.
myredracer
Explorer II
Jul 16, 2014
Dyngbld wrote:
The receptacle is at the end of a run of #14 ga. running up, down and all around the garage

#14 wire is way to small to run 30amps.

#10 minimum.

http://www.rvpowerprotection.com/Links_files/30-amp%20Service.pdf

I wasn't running 30 amps and I realize that would require #10. I was getting 98 volts with a vacuum cleaner that has a current draw of 12 amps. Even plugging into the garage recept. directly with the 30A shore power cord made no difference making it the overall length of the of #14 run inside the garage the cause (garage is about 1000 sq. ft with maybe 200' or more of overall #14).

My point is that anyone could have long runs of branch circuit wiring in their house/garage that could cause unanticipated excessive voltage drop.
pacamper
Explorer
Jul 16, 2014
Ok I started with 123.xx volts, with only one light on in the camper, I turned the ac on and when the compressor kicked on it dropped to 115.xx, while it's running I'm showing 116.3, sound ok ??
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Jul 16, 2014
I will give you the short answer:

Question: Can I run either A/C or MICROWAVE on 20 amps at home.

A:Please read conditions but: YES.. however.....

Conditions: If you have a large (IE: 80 amp) 3-stage converter.. (80 amps is chosen because that is what I have) you may have to wait a hour or 3 before turingin on the A/C or Microwave after plugging in.

WHY... Well, My converter can suck around 12-15 amps no sweat. if my battery bank (Around 550 amp hours) is hungry. But once they have snacked on shore power for a few hours that drops to just a few amps, and eventually to around 1.
Grumpy374
Explorer
Jul 16, 2014
Good point!!! Sorry I forgot that bit of info. Def 120 volt / 30 amp circuit.
Grumpy
powderman426
Explorer
Jul 16, 2014
Dyngbld wrote:
Grumpy374 wrote:
If your going to keep your rv at your house on a permenant basis, just do it the right way one time and be done with it. Have an electrician run a dedicated 30 amp line to a new outside outlet. Your home breaker box should have several unused breaker punchouts. Just run a 30 amp breaker with a new line. Weather proof outside outlet, and now you can run anything, includung ac.
You will spend less on the materials to do it right than you will on a good quality 10 guage 50 foot extension cord.
Grumpy

This is the best solution.

Make sure the electrician understands that this is a 30 amp 120 volt circuit.
Dyngbld
Explorer
Jul 16, 2014
The receptacle is at the end of a run of #14 ga. running up, down and all around the garage

#14 wire is way to small to run 30amps.

#10 minimum.

http://www.rvpowerprotection.com/Links_files/30-amp%20Service.pdf