dougrainer wrote:
SidecarFlip wrote:
kmb1966 wrote:
MDKMDK wrote:
kmb1966 wrote:
MDKMDK wrote:
Absolutely. You didn't say what your year/make/model was of the RV or Norcold (or I didn't go digging for it?), but my DC0061 definitely works harder when the coach's interior ambient temp is higher.
I see it's a DSDP. Assume it's not a 7 cuft Norcold? :B
I should have put that info on my post. I will edit the post and update that info. It's a Norcold 1200 in a 2003 Newmar Dutch Star
No worries. I just got off my lazy butt and did a little profile digging. :W
My "absolutely" still stands. Hot inside coach, fridge works harder to maintain temps.
In propane mode I can only reach about 39 degrees with approx 80 degrees inside the coach (testing cooling unit)
In electric mode I can only reach about 38 degrees, but if the inside temp is around 90 degrees, can only get to approx 40 degrees in electric 42 in propane.
It's in storage doing this test and I can't run the generator or have a hookup so it's really warm inside the unit, but trying to determine if the frig is working right.
I probably need to get it out and plug it in a 50 amp where I can test with normal inside livable temps.
Interesting, should be the other way around with propane being the colder of the 2 because the propane flame is emitting more BTU's in heat than the Cal Rod is.
Another wives tale. BTU's are BTU's. They design the 120 and LP to operate the same and have the equivalent BTU's. That said, there ARE factors that would lead someone to believe LP is Better.
1. the input 120 LINE voltage is subpar(below 115 volts). That would cause the 120 element to NOT operate at the correct BTU's, but that is a supply fault and not a refer fault.
2. LOW LP pressure would cause cooling problem versus 120.
Bottom line is, BOTH LP and 120 will operate the refer the same as long as the Line voltage is at spec and the LP pressure is at spec. I ALWAYS test refers on 120 volts for any operational problems. The only time I use LP is when there is a LP operation complaint.
IF you suspect 120 line voltage problems, then put the refer on LP, as it will cool better. Doug
Doug is absolutely correct on what he says above - at least regarding what I've seen in our 6.3 cf Norcold RV refrigerator.
We store our RV right out in the backyard of the house on hookups all the time, so I can test anything, anytime right here at home. Our Norcold refrigerator gets right down in temperature - in both it's refrigerator section and freezer section regardless of outside temperatures - on either propane or electric. It's vent is in the RV's roof right above the back of the refrigerator where the outside air intake is down below at the back of the refrigerator - which I believe is the correct way to install these refrigerators in an RV.
Our unit has adjustable temperture via a 5-position switch, so I can even maintain a freezer temperature of 0 degrees if I wish. HOWEVER, my only complaint is there is no adjustment for the DIFFERENCE between the refrigerator section's temperature and the freezer section's temperature.
Ideal food storage temperatures are 38 degrees in refrigerators and 0 degrees in freezers.
I can get either temperature in our RV's Norcold refrigerator by setting the adjustment switch - but not both at the same time. A setting that results in around 38 degrees in the refrigerator results in the freezer being around 10 degrees, and a setting that results in around 0 degrees in the freezer results in the refrigerator being around 32 degrees.
I've discussed this previously in the forums, and no one has responded on how to modify this temperature difference ... at least in Norcold propane/electric RV refrigerator models with the 5-position adjustable temperature switch on the front panel, like ours.
