RV inside Temperature and Refrigerator temperature

kmb1966 wrote:

In propane mode I can only reach about 39 degrees with approx 80 degrees inside the coach (testing cooling unit)
In electric mode I can only reach about 38 degrees, but if the inside temp is around 90 degrees, can only get to approx 40 degrees in electric 42 in propane.
It's in storage doing this test and I can't run the generator or have a hookup so it's really warm inside the unit, but trying to determine if the frig is working right.
I probably need to get it out and plug it in a 50 amp where I can test with normal inside livable temps.

I think I'd be doing just that, get it cooled down inside to what you'd be comfortable with for actual living temps inside the coach, and see how the numbers look then. I think you'll see better fridge temps at ambients of 70F, versus 90F?

As a test I started the refer at 110F with afternoon sun on the outside wall and the refer didn't go below 52F with no A/C. Started the A/Cs which cooled 5 of the 6 refer sides and the refer came down to 39F.

Unless it's very hot the cab A/C cools us and the refer for proper cooling while driving. When it is very hot 2 things happen.

1. We run the house A/Cs.

2. We are are headed to cooler areas.

Are you level both front to back and more critically side to side?

Are the fans in the back operating properly?

kmb1966 wrote:

MDKMDK wrote:

kmb1966 wrote:

MDKMDK wrote:
Absolutely. You didn't say what your year/make/model was of the RV or Norcold (or I didn't go digging for it?), but my DC0061 definitely works harder when the coach's interior ambient temp is higher.
I see it's a DSDP. Assume it's not a 7 cuft Norcold? :B

I should have put that info on my post. I will edit the post and update that info. It's a Norcold 1200 in a 2003 Newmar Dutch Star

No worries. I just got off my lazy butt and did a little profile digging. :W
My "absolutely" still stands. Hot inside coach, fridge works harder to maintain temps.

In propane mode I can only reach about 39 degrees with approx 80 degrees inside the coach (testing cooling unit)
In electric mode I can only reach about 38 degrees, but if the inside temp is around 90 degrees, can only get to approx 40 degrees in electric 42 in propane.
It's in storage doing this test and I can't run the generator or have a hookup so it's really warm inside the unit, but trying to determine if the frig is working right.
I probably need to get it out and plug it in a 50 amp where I can test with normal inside livable temps.

Interesting, should be the other way around with propane being the colder of the 2 because the propane flame is emitting more BTU's in heat than the Cal Rod is.

RV builders tend to not put enough insulation around the fridge enclosure. In my case, I added almost an entire roll of unfaced insulation to the space between the fridge and the surrounding cavity. Every bit helps with an Amish fridge.

MDKMDK wrote:

kmb1966 wrote:

MDKMDK wrote:
Absolutely. You didn't say what your year/make/model was of the RV or Norcold (or I didn't go digging for it?), but my DC0061 definitely works harder when the coach's interior ambient temp is higher.
I see it's a DSDP. Assume it's not a 7 cuft Norcold? :B

I should have put that info on my post. I will edit the post and update that info. It's a Norcold 1200 in a 2003 Newmar Dutch Star

No worries. I just got off my lazy butt and did a little profile digging. :W
My "absolutely" still stands. Hot inside coach, fridge works harder to maintain temps.

In propane mode I can only reach about 39 degrees with approx 80 degrees inside the coach (testing cooling unit)
In electric mode I can only reach about 38 degrees, but if the inside temp is around 90 degrees, can only get to approx 40 degrees in electric 42 in propane.
It's in storage doing this test and I can't run the generator or have a hookup so it's really warm inside the unit, but trying to determine if the frig is working right.
I probably need to get it out and plug it in a 50 amp where I can test with normal inside livable temps.

kmb1966 wrote:

MDKMDK wrote:
Absolutely. You didn't say what your year/make/model was of the RV or Norcold (or I didn't go digging for it?), but my DC0061 definitely works harder when the coach's interior ambient temp is higher.
I see it's a DSDP. Assume it's not a 7 cuft Norcold? :B

I should have put that info on my post. I will edit the post and update that info. It's a Norcold 1200 in a 2003 Newmar Dutch Star

No worries. I just got off my lazy butt and did a little profile digging. :W
My "absolutely" still stands. Hot inside coach, fridge works harder to maintain temps.

MDKMDK wrote:
Absolutely. You didn't say what your year/make/model was of the RV or Norcold (or I didn't go digging for it?), but my DC0061 definitely works harder when the coach's interior ambient temp is higher.
I see it's a DSDP. Assume it's not a 7 cuft Norcold? :B

I should have put that info on my post. I will edit the post and update that info. It's a Norcold 1200 in a 2003 Newmar Dutch Star

Absolutely. You didn't say what your year/make/model was of the RV or Norcold (or I didn't go digging for it?), but my DC0061 definitely works harder when the coach's interior ambient temp is higher.
I see it's a DSDP. Assume it's not a 7 cuft Norcold? :B

YES......hotter the inside of RV is the longer it will take fridge to effective cool down just due to the radiant heat on outside of fridge door/cabinet area

And when you open the fridge door ALL that HOT inside air will replace the COLD inside air in fridge...making it have to struggle to cool down AGAIN