RV Outlet NEC Code Question

I say not a problem. No need to have two hots.

Only issue would be trying to draw more than 30 amps total on the #10 feeder but you say you won't. Worst thing that could happen is tripping the 30 amp breaker back in the house main panel. Length of the #10 could be an issue for voltage drop if wanting to draw at/near 30 amps.

If this were installed under article 551 for RVs, the NEC does not require simultaneous demand loads of 30 and 20 amp recept. to be included in sizing wire to a pedestal and a pedestal "panel" doesn't require a main breaker in it.

If this were a remote garage structure on the property, a main breaker in it's sub-panel would not be required for less than breakers with less than "6 handles" total in the sub-panel .

I believe that you will require at least one ground rod, and maybe two by the latest code edition and of course, neutral and ground cannot be bonded together at the pedestal panel.

If you already have been using a 30 amp recept. only, then I would think that voltage drop hasn't been a problem but you might want to check the voltage at the pedestal just to make sure it's looking okay.

If still in doubt after reading all the posts here, google "mike holt" along with "remote sub-panel disconnect" or go to the Mike Holt electrical forum and ask there.

Good on you for knowing it's important to shut power off at a pedestal before plugging in you shore power cord. Reason is that a converter has a momentary inrush current due to it's capacitors which causes pitting on the plug blades and inside a receptacle which in turn attracts dirt and creates resistance and heat. Not necessary for plugging in anything that isn't an RV (tools, lawnmower, etc.

BurbMan wrote:

sgip2000 wrote:
Need to pull new wire. Codes requires 2 hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel.

You can use 10ga for ground, but will need 6ga minimum for the hots and neutral and a 60A breaker.

The reason being, if you kept the 10ga wire, there is a possibility for an overload if using more than one of the receptacles. Not to mention that those boxes are wired for 2 buses with 2 120 lines.

I did this same upgrade a couple years ago and have not regretted it. Having a port available for my welder has been nice too.

If you don't want to do all this, can you use an exterior receptacle on your RV as your "convenience" receptacle?

The 30a breaker in the mail panel already protects the #10 wiring going to the outlet....I have no need for 60a worth of power or to run my welder out there....

I did similar to what you are describing when I put the 100a sub panel in the new detached garage, but that's not what we're talking about here.

Yes, the main breaker protects the wire. If you look at the new panel though, it'll have the two circuits on different buses. Sure, you can jumper them, but like you said, you can't use both if your AC is on.

Why not just use the exterior 20A receptacle on your RV for your "convenience receptacle"?

sgip2000 wrote:
Need to pull new wire. Codes requires 2 hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel.

You can use 10ga for ground, but will need 6ga minimum for the hots and neutral and a 60A breaker.

The reason being, if you kept the 10ga wire, there is a possibility for an overload if using more than one of the receptacles. Not to mention that those boxes are wired for 2 buses with 2 120 lines.

I did this same upgrade a couple years ago and have not regretted it. Having a port available for my welder has been nice too.

If you don't want to do all this, can you use an exterior receptacle on your RV as your "convenience" receptacle?

The 30a breaker in the mail panel already protects the #10 wiring going to the outlet....I have no need for 60a worth of power or to run my welder out there....

I did similar to what you are describing when I put the 100a sub panel in the new detached garage, but that's not what we're talking about here.

Your new box is good as is the wiring.
The 30 amp in service panel protects the wire from overloading. The branch breakers in the RV panel protects the loads.
You may, but I doubt it that, need to install jumper on the top of the breakers. It should be there.

darsben1 wrote:
All I can tell you that new installs require a means of disconnecting the power at the box if it is more than a certain distance from the meter. I Believe 50 feet but my memory is not as good as it used to be.

True to an extent. There is a "6 disconnect" rule that states that if there are 6 or fewer breakers, a main disconnect is not required.

Need to pull new wire. Codes requires 2 hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel.

You can use 10ga for ground, but will need 6ga minimum for the hots and neutral and a 60A breaker.

The reason being, if you kept the 10ga wire, there is a possibility for an overload if using more than one of the receptacles. Not to mention that those boxes are wired for 2 buses with 2 120 lines.

I did this same upgrade a couple years ago and have not regretted it. Having a port available for my welder has been nice too.

If you don't want to do all this, can you use an exterior receptacle on your RV as your "convenience" receptacle?

Mex, I understand that. The 30a breaker in the main panel protects the #10 wire going to the outlet and the 20a breaker at the new outlet protects the GFI. I have no doubt it will be safe, the question is what the code says about it.

All I can tell you that new installs require a means of disconnecting the power at the box if it is more than a certain distance from the meter. I Believe 50 feet but my memory is not as good as it used to be.

Whenever a circuit is added it must comply with "worst case" scenarios as far as connections and wire size are concerned. Which includes load device NEMA ratings. Because of liability considerations you really should check your local building code specification at your local regulatory agency (where you get your building permits)