Slide Electrical Issues

The bell is indeed a stop when retracting. Once it hits the frame, the clutch of the motor will then rachet. A COMMON problem with this type Slide motor system is, the motor/slide ram gear fails and then fails to either run or rachet. This requires a replacement of the telescoping ram and the motor. They usually come as a kit. Just replacing the motor does not always fix this problem. A work around when it fails is simple. There is a manual override either ON the motor or the OEM has used a extension on the motor to beside the area of the Bell. Just manually moving the motor to extend slightly(less than an inch) will now allow the system to function. But, it will fail again in the future. Doug

On our previous RV it became habit to turn the LR manual crank one turn before trying to power it out. Never did fix it before trading it.

My kitchen slide was doing the exact same thing when new. Sometimes it would open, sometimes it would just make the ratcheting sound as if it was fully extended.

The service tech adjusted this slightly towards the frame and that corrected the problem. You may find this under your slide when extended. He said it was driving too far in and jamming the gears, or something like that.



Serious Warning: This bell stop assembly adjusts how much the slide closes. If yours has this you can try slightly adjusting it towards the frame a quarter turn at a time. Count your turns. Put a mark on it before you start turning. If you adjust it too far towards the frame the slide Will Leak. IIRC, he turned mine 3/4 turn to get it to work properly and still seal properly.

Hopefully someone here more knowledgeable will chime in on this.

I hope this helps

Low battery voltage
Poor connection in battery circuit (The first suspects are the battery terminals and the next are the ground, then hot connections at the other end of the cables finally every connection between the battery and the power distribution panel)

Next Normal FULL CHARGE battery voltage is 12.6 (comment follows)
Chargeris 13.6 to 14.6 depending on state of charge.

I have a 2-way radio that WILL NOT OPERATE properly on voltages less than 12.7 or so it seems (not measuring when on car battery power) works great on 14.2 Volt LiFePo4 pack I have for it.. in fact last Saturday I did some testing and the radio hit full power (100 watts out) into the test device and when I switched to the antenna Talked from Flint, MI to Phoenix AZ like he was next door.

Your slide. like my radio, is voltage sensitive.. As voltage goes down the current goes up. At some point (Pre-set point) the controller thinks "All Done motor stalled" becuse when the motor stalls the current goes up. That is the "limit Switch" on many slides.

When extended the slides on our previous trailers we were told to leave it plugged into the truck with the ending running, once they were out then disconnect.

So this is an ongoing problem. Sometimes the slide works, sometimes it doesn't. I have verified full voltage at the motor.

When it get stuck in the "in" position, I can turn the nut on the shaft a few times with a wrench to get it to move under electrical power again.

I'm open to any suggestions.

None of your slides are 120V. They are 12V over hydraulic or 12 Volt/mechanical. Some slides require more current to operate than others. Some manufacturers say to either be plugged in or have your generator running before operating sides and jacks.

JoshInReno wrote:
Hi everyone, it's been awhile.

I have a new to me trailer and have run into a problem:

The bedroom slide will not move on 12v power. It just clicks. The kitchen slide works fine on 12v so I don't suspect the battery but it's possible.

The bedroom slide works fine on 120v so I assume the motor and gearbox are fine. It should be noted I have yet to even find the motor and gearbox. The slide has arms, not cables so I suspect the drivetrain is under the slide but it's an enclosed underbelly that I don't want to start cutting into just yet.

Any ideas?

Lots of variations in slide operating mechanisms but most with "arms" use either a motor turning a shaft with pinion gears that push the slide out or a linear actuator with motor and gearbox mounted underneath. Usually a "Through Frame" design.

I had a similar problem with my slide where it operated sometimes, sometimes stopped after a few moments of movement, and sometimes resumed operation after some time passed. I finally got frustrated with having to crank in/out manually.

I removed motor (which on my TT was mounted inside the frame on the opposite side as the slide and enclosed by belly cover). I removed motor from gearbox and dissassembled it. Found one brush was sticking in the brush holder. Wasn't making solid contact with the commutator and after a short period of operation the normal vibration in the motor would push the brush back just enough that it wouldn't carry any current into the motor. I had to spread the slotted opening in the brush holder enough to allow the brush to FREELY move in it and after reassembling the motor has worked flawlessly since.

Don't know what your system uses but when motors stop working on purely battery power, but work OK when the voltage is increased by connecting to shore power, it's almost a certainty it's voltage or poor connection related.

Before spending any money or extra effort on the issue I'd recommend connecting a voltmeter to the motor input and see if full voltage is reaching the motor when slide switch is engaged.

FWIW, most manufacturers recommend that slides be operated with shore power connected (or generator connected and running). Depending on the brand a slide can draw from <10 amp to close to 30 amp.

jdc1 wrote:

eHoefler wrote:
All systems on the trailer are 12 volt. Since it operates when plugged in, it will be a battery issue. Have your battery tested, if over 3 years old, replace it.

I agree. Try using a different battery (even your truck battery).

I'll probably replace the trailer batteries this weekend, but I thought it was odd the front slide would work on battery (I'm guessing voltage drop to the rear slide due to length) while the rear slide wouldn't.

Also, the rear slide won't operate with the truck plugged in and running. I'm guessing it's just that sensitive?

eHoefler wrote:
All systems on the trailer are 12 volt. Since it operates when plugged in, it will be a battery issue. Have your battery tested, if over 3 years old, replace it.

I agree. Try using a different battery (even your truck battery).