(I am on limited internet while camping or I could spend the MBs looking this up myself, so if anybody has nothing better to do, please look this up and give me the link so I can go straight to that and see the right wire to wire diagram or description, thanks)OK , I am replacing the original Lippert switch with one I got at an RV shop. The package does not give a wiring diagram. Rats.Lippert- Green switch wire to red motor wire (outboard wire at IN end)-Red switch wire to black motor wire (outboard wire at OUT end)Note: actual motor has two wires one red one white- the "Lippert" red and black "motor wires" go to these two wires.-Black wire to battery positive (middle wire)-Two whites on switch combined at the trailer white to ground wireRV Care (rvcare.ca) Switch (Made by American Technology Components)-Outboard wire at IN end- black-Outboard wire at OUT end-red-Middle wire-greenSecond wire in at IN end -yellowSecond wire in at OUT end-blackI have tried various ways and got either the IN or OUT to work but never both, plus I have burnt out four 30a fuses so I have given up fooling around. :( Monday is a holiday here so I will have to wait till Tuesday to go back and get a wiring diagram or else maybe one of you good folks can give me a steer to the right way to match these wires. (five switch wires, four trailer wires.) Thanks.

You do have a meter with ohms scaleMake a connection chart start with the old switchSwitch of measure all wires to other wires, red to blk, red to green ,red to white etc.. Then green to bulk, gen to whit.Now switch in and measure againSwitch out measure againWrite all of it downDo it again with new switchIt's not about wire colorsIt's all about which connections close , when going one way or the otherOnce you have it written down, you can match toe open and closed connections in each direction to the correct color wiresExample red and green connected on old switch might pressed "IN"Might match yellow and people connected when pressed "IN" , on new switch

Thanks Mr Wiz, but I already failed the IQ test on that and am running out of 30a fuses! Note the old switch is fried so I can't check anything with it except try to match wire to wire.The main thing is the old switch has two whites that go to ground, so it is simple. The new switch is just weird how it is laid out. My brain is scrambled on overload so a diagram would be good about now,thanks, though. Maybe your reply will make more sense to me after I settle down. :(

Check the switch for continuity on all posts/wires with the switch NOT powered, first. This is the same as Mr. Wizard stated. Yes, you can use the older switch if it's functional.

westend wrote:Check the switch for continuity on all posts/wires with the switch NOT powered, first. This is the same as Mr. Wizard stated. Yes, you can use the older switch if it's functional.First off you can "power" the switch with whichever wire(s) is/are the neg(s) to either the battery pos or neg as long as you put the switch pos wire(s) (whichever ones they really are--several seem to work!!! )on the other pole's wire from the battery.You can swap wires to the motor and get it to go in or out (reversing the two 12v motor wires makes it go in or out) So you can go INSANE swapping battery neg and pos and motor neg and pos and then there is always an extra wire left over (five on four) so you can't do both in and out like it is supposed to unless you know the SECRET. :( Also the two black wires are great for which one blows the fuse while the other doesn't. Argggh!Somebody please let me in on the American Technology method to go where the Lippert switch went. Even a 7-pin onto a Chev with its funny wire colours wasn't this bad! :)

I can't make heads or tails out of the instructions. If your Lippert slide works the same as my previous one did, the slide switch is a DPDT, center-off, polarity reversing switch. Either the two motor wires or the two power wires go to the switch center terminals. It can work either way. Then the two sets of outer terminals on the switch are connected in crisscross fashion, i.e. upper right to lower left, and lower right to upper left. The power or motor wires, whichever aren't hooked to the center terminals, connect to either end of the switch's outer terminals where the crisscrossed wires are. If the slide operates backwards, reverse either the motor or power wires. This is all where the switch operates the motor directly. If a relay or controller is involved, it will be different.

Slide In/Out Switch Wiring Help Please | Good Sam Community

MrWizard
Moderator
Aug 03, 2014
looks like you have all the info Now...
good luck
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Aug 03, 2014
Betcha nickel he doesn't bother to take a photo of it......
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Aug 03, 2014
This is how to eliminate slideout switch problems for 336 years

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Relays-Contactors-Solenoids/DC-Relays-Contactors-Solenoids/12-VDC-REVERSING-SOLENOID-FOR-9-7550-11-3149.axd
BFL13
Explorer II
Aug 03, 2014
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Betcha nickel he doesn't bother to take a photo of it......

Correct. I did an ink amendment to my Lippert wiring diagram in the handout we got with the trailer. :)

Mr Wiz is also correct that I should have been able to figure it out from first principles as he first posted, but you need a working brain for that.

I suppose it is too much to ask for them to put a wiring diagram in the package the switch comes in. Oh well.
MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Aug 03, 2014
Gimme my nickel and I'll give it back as a reward BFL13. The possible admonishment was actually intended for "eyes other than yours"

This forum is an aggregate total vital resource of ten thousand and ten things, references, how-to's, links, knowledge and experience. I study heater, water heater, AC, generator, inverter threads for useful comments. It is a learning center for me.

BTW: I just purchased 100 star shaped LED 10-watt heatsinks for 1,100 lumen Bridgelux 10-12 volt LED chips. Total price delivered under two hundred dollars.

No fan needed. Now the hunt is on for exceptionally low priced drivers.

I am going to try clear gel-coating the chips once they are mounted. For corrosion resistance. This is going to be fun.

I am going to try and series connect 4 33 volt 50 watt chips, isolate with a 6 amp 1KV rectifier span a 100 uf cap across the rectified potential and pluggerin.

"This is the North American Command (Omaha). Out bird just captured a double flash at 22 degrees latitude -possible nuclear event"
BFL13
Explorer II
Aug 03, 2014
The new switch got the last laugh anyway, even though the wiring diagram is clear. Murphy's Law.

The motor has two wires (red and white) and the red and black wires from there to the switch place inside the trailer have to be connected at the switch end for IN and OUT.

It doesn't matter what the switch's wiring diagram says for the red and black wires to the motor because for sure, whoever put the red and black wires on the motor's red and white wires will nave done them the other way around! Argghh!

So put those two wires at the switch on last after the pos and neg wires are connected. Then you can play trial and error to find out which one is really IN and which is really OUT. :(
myredracer
Explorer II
Aug 04, 2014
Hopefully you have figured it out now. This link to American Technology may help. American Technology slide & awning switches. Same switch.

I just installed a new awning and a slide switch. The switches were a little different as I got them from different sources. I couldn't figure one out at first and then discovered that you need to jumper two of the terminals together to make the polarity reverse properly. They are just a DPDT switch and I think one has an internal jumper and one doesn't.

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