solar charge controller test

Hondacanoe wrote:
Yes 100 watt. When plugged in the outlets didn’t work.
Thanks for the answer. Makes sense. Easy test. I’ll post results when finished.
Are the reverse polarity fuses on the controller or the converter?
Thanks

Ok that is new important info! The outlets and the converter are 120v things you power from shore power, generator, or inverter (not supposed to run the converter off the inverter though).

Your converter can't work if you have no 120v as indicated by the outlets not working either.

This has absolutely nothing to do with the solar. So need to start over and get your 120v working. Look for a GFCI popped (rain or washing hose in outside receptacle? ("outlet" in newspeak)? Snap the main 30a breaker in RV back and forth. If on shore power from the house, check the breaker for that house receptacle in the house's breaker panel.

The RP fuses are on the deck mount converter itself or with a hardwired Parallax 7xxx they can be on the DC fuse panel close by the converter --all in the power centre with the converter being the "lower portion"

Controller might overcharge the battery if defective. Otherwise no harm to the converter. Voltmeter would verify proper operation.
You may as well post the converter model number so you can get a proper replacement.

Also when you service or disconnect the battery it is best to disconnect the panels from the controller first.

Yes 100 watt. When plugged in the outlets and lights didn’t work when battery was disconnected.
Thanks for the answer. Makes sense. Easy test. I’ll post results when finished.
Are the reverse polarity fuses on the controller or the converter?
Thanks

The fuses are on the converter.

Yes 100 watt. When plugged in the outlets didn’t work.
Thanks for the answer. Makes sense. Easy test. I’ll post results when finished.
Are the reverse polarity fuses on the controller or the converter?
Thanks

First confirm you have wired the controller properly. 6 holes. Do not use the two "Load" ones. Make sure you have the "Battery" wires in the controller with red to pos and black to neg. Assuming those two wires have ring terminals to go on the battery posts, and using your truck battery not the camper's, and using your jumper cables, clamp the jumper clamps to the ring terminals-red to red, black to black.

Ok, with the truck not running, clamp the jumpers to the truck battery red to pos and black to somewhere on the truck frame (or to the battery neg post if you don't mind a spark)

Check the controller to see if it lights up and the display shows stuff.
it should show battery voltage at 12.x. If so, now connect the panel to the "array" holes on the controller red to pos and black to neg.

The display should now show battery voltage has gone up to say 13.x.

Not normal for the solar to cause a converter problem soon after. If it happened right away, I would guess you wired it wrong so that somehow your battery wires got reversed and you blew the reverse polarity fuses. If that was all, you could just replace those and wire it right and not need a new converter, but too late for that now. Keep it as a spare or sell it maybe.

100 watt, not amp. What about the converter 'went bad'?